Having seen a bull-fight, _the sight_ of Spain, those who only wish to
pass time agreeably cannot be too quick in getting their passports viséd
for Naples. A pleasant _country_ life, according to our notions, in
Spain, is a thing that is not; and the substitute is but a Bedouin
Oriental makeshift existence, which, amusing enough for a spurt, will
not do in the long run. Nor is life much better in the _towns_; those in
the inland provinces have a convent-like, dead, old-fashioned look about
them, which petrifies a lively person; nay even an artist when he has
finished his sketches, is ready to commit suicide from sheer Bore, the
genius of the locality. Madrid itself is but an unsocial, second-rate,
inhospitable city; and when the traveller has seen the Museum, been to
the play, and walked on the eternal roundabout Prado, the sooner he
shakes the dust off his feet the better. The maritime seaports, as in
the East, from being frequented by the foreigner, are a trifle more
cosmopolitan, cheerful, and amusing; but generally speaking, public
amusements are rare throughout this semi-Moro land. The calm
contemplation of a cigar, and the _dolce far niente_ of _siestose_ quiet
indolence with unexciting twaddle, suffice; while to some nations it is
a pain to be out of pleasure, to the Spaniard it is a pleasure to be out
of painful exertion: existence is happiness enough of itself; and as for
occupation, all desire only to do to-day what they did yesterday and
will do to-morrow, that is nothing. Thus life slips away in a dreamy,
listless routine, the serious business of love-making excepted; leave
me, leave me, to repose and tobacco. When however awake, the _Alameda_,
or church-show, the bull-fight, and the rendezvous, are the chief
relaxations. These will be best enjoyed in the Southern provinces, the
land also of the song and dance, of bright suns and eyes, and not the
largest female feet in the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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