The roads of Spain, a matter of much importance to a judicious
traveller, are somewhat a modern luxury, having been only regularly
introduced by the Bourbons. The Moors and Spaniards, who rode on horses
and not in carriages, suffered those magnificent lines with which the
Romans had covered the Peninsula to go to decay; of these there were no
less than twenty-nine of the first order, which were absolutely
necessary to a nation of conquerors and colonists to keep up their
military and commercial communications. The grandest of all, which like
the Appian might be termed the Queen of Roads, ran from Merida, the
capital of Lusitania, to Salamanca. It was laid down like a Cyclopean
wall, and much of it remains to this day, with the grey granite line
stretching across the aromatic wastes, like the vertebræ of an extinct
mammoth. We have followed for miles its course, which is indicated by
the still standing miliary columns that rise above the cistus underwood;
here and there tall forest trees grow out of the stone pavement, and
show how long it has been abandoned by man to Nature ever young and gay,
who thus by uprooting and displacing the huge blocks slowly recovers her
rights. She festoons the ruins with necklaces of flowers and creepers,
and hides the rents and wrinkles of odious, all-dilapidating Time, or
man’s worse neglect, as a pretty maid decorates a shrivelled dowager’s
with diamonds. The Spanish muleteer creeps along by its side in a track
which he has made through the sand or pebbles; he seems ashamed to
trample on this lordly way, for which, in his petty wants, he has no
occasion. Most of the similar roads have been taken up by monks to raise
convents, by burgesses to build houses, by military men to construct
fortifications--thus even their ruins have perished.
[Sidenote: LEGEND OF SANTO DOMINGO.]
The mediæval Spanish roads were the works of the clergy; and the
long-bearded monks, here as elsewhere, were the pioneers of
civilization; they made straight, wide, and easy the way which led to
their convent, their high place, their miracle shrine, or to whatever
point of pilgrimage that was held out to the devout; traffic was soon
combined with devotion, and the service of mammon with that of God. This
imitation of the Oriental practice which obtained at Mecca, is evidenced
by language in which the Spanish term _Feria_ signifies at once a
religious function, a holiday, and a fair. Even saints condescended to
become waywardens, and to take title from the highway. Thus _Santo
Domingo de la Calzada_, “St. Domenick of the _Paved Road_,” was so
called from his having been the first to make one through a part of Old
Castile for the benefit of pilgrims on their way to Compostella, and
this town yet bears the honoured appellation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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