This feat and his legend have furnished Southey with a subject of a
droll ballad. The saint having finished his road, next set up an inn or
_Venta_, the Maritornes of which fell in love with a handsome pilgrim,
who resisted; whereupon she hid some spoons in this Joseph’s saddlebags,
who was taken up by the Alcalde, and forthwith hanged. But his parents
some time afterwards passed under the body, which told them that he was
innocent, alive, and well, and all by the intercession of the sainted
road-maker; thereupon they proceeded forthwith to the truculent Alcalde,
who was going to dine off two roasted fowls, and, on hearing their
report, remarked, You might as well tell me that this cock (pointing to
his rôti) would crow; whereupon it did crow, and was taken with its hen
to the cathedral, and two chicks have ever since been regularly hatched
every year from these respectable parents, of which a travelling
ornithologist should secure one for the Zoological Garden. The cock and
hen were duly kept near the high altar, and their white feathers were
worn by pilgrims in their caps. Prudent bagsmen will, however, put a
couple of ordinary roast fowls into their “provend,” for hungry is this
said road to _Logroño_.
[Sidenote: ROAD TO TOLEDO.]
In this land of miracles, anomalies, and contradictions, the roads to
and from this very _Compostella_ are now detestable. In other provinces
of Spain, the star-paved milky way in heaven is called _El Camino de
Santiago_, the road of St. James; but the Gallicians, who know what
their roads really are, namely, the worst on earth, call the milky-way
_El Camino de Jerusalem_, “the road to Jerusalem,” which it assuredly is
not. The ancients poetically attributed this phenomenon to some spilt
milk of Juno.
Meanwhile the roads in Gallicia, although under the patronage of
Santiago, who has replaced the Roman Hermes, are, like his milky-way in
heaven, but little indebted to mortal repairs. The Dean of Santiago is
waywarden by virtue of his office or dignity, and especially
“protector.” The chapter, however, now chiefly profess to make smooth
the road to a better world. They have altogether degenerated from their
forefathers, whose grand object was to construct roads for the pilgrim;
but since the cessation of offering-making Hadjis, little or nothing has
been done in the turnpike-trust line.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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