A system of post, both for the despatch of letters and the conveyance of
couriers, was introduced into Spain under Philip and Juana, that is,
towards the end of the reign of our Henry VII.; whereas it was scarcely
organised in England before the government of Cromwell. Spain, which in
these matters, as well as in many others, was once so much in advance,
is now compelled to borrow her improvements from those nations of which
she formerly was the instructress: among these may be reckoned all
travelling in carriages, whether public or private.
The post-office for letters is arranged on the plan common to most
countries on the Continent: the delivery is pretty regular, but seldom
daily--twice or three times a-week. Small scruple is made by the
authorities in opening private letters, whenever they suspect the
character of the correspondence. It is as well, therefore, for the
traveller to avoid expressing the whole of his opinions of the powers
that be. The minds of men have been long troubled in Spain; civil war
has rendered them very distrustful and guarded in their _written_
correspondence--“_carta canta_,” “a letter speaks.”
There is the usual continental bother in obtaining post-horses, which
results from their being a monopoly of government. There must be a
passport, an official order, notice of departure, &c.; next ensue
vexatious regulations in regard to the number of passengers, horses,
luggage, style of carriage, and so forth. These, and other spokes put
into the wheel, appear to have been invented by clerks who sit at home
devising how to impede rather than facilitate posting at all.
[Sidenote: PUBLIC CONVEYANCES.]
Post-horses and mules are paid at the rate of seven reals each for each
post. The Spanish postilions generally, and especially if well paid,
drive at a tremendous pace, often amounting to a gallop; nor are they
easily stopped, even if the traveller desires it--they seem only to be
intent on arriving at their stages’ end, in order to indulge in the
great national joy of then doing nothing: to get there, they heed
neither ruts nor ravines; and when once their cattle are started the
inside passenger feels like a kettle tied to the tail of a mad dog, or a
comet; the wild beasts think no more of him than if he were Mazeppa:
thus money makes the mare and its driver to go, as surely in Spain as in
all other countries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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