Another mode of travelling is by riding post, accompanied by a mounted
postilion, who is changed with the cattle at each relay. It is an
expeditious but fatiguing plan; yet one which, like the Tartar courier
of the East, has long prevailed in Spain. Thus our Charles I. rode to
Madrid under the name of John Smith, by which he was not likely to be
identified. The delight of Philip II., who boasted that he governed the
world from the Escorial, was to receive frequent and early intelligence;
and this desire to hear something new is still characteristic of the
Spanish government. The cabinet-couriers have the preference of horses
at every relay. The particular distances they have to perform are all
timed, and so many leagues are required to be done in a fixed time; and,
in order to encourage despatch, for every hour gained on the allowed
time, an additional sum was paid to them: hence the common expression
“_ganando horas_” gaining hours--equivalent to our old “post
haste--haste for your life.”
[Sidenote: DILIGENCES.]
[Sidenote: EXPENSES ON THE ROAD.]
The usual mode of travelling for the affluent is in the public
conveyances, which are the fashion from being novelties and only
introduced under Ferdinand VII.; previously to their being allowed at
all, serious objections were started, similar to those raised by his
late Holiness to the introduction of railways into the papal states; it
was said that these tramontane facilities would bring in foreigners, and
with them philosophy, heresy, and innovations, by which the wisdom of
Spain’s ancestors might be upset. These scruples were ingeniously got
over by bribing the monarch with a large share of the profits. Now that
the royal monopoly is broken down, many new and competing companies have
sprung up; this mode of travelling is the cheapest and safest, nor is
it thought at all beneath the dignity of “the best set,” nay royalty
itself goes by the coach. Thus the Infante Don Francisco de Paula
constantly hires the whole of the diligence to convey himself and his
family from Madrid to the sea-coast; and one reason gravely given for
Don Enrique’s not coming to marry the Queen, was that his Royal Highness
could not get a place, as the dilly was booked full. The public
carriages of Spain are quite as good as those of France, and the company
who travel in them generally more respectable and better bred. This is
partly accounted for by the expense: the fares are not very high, yet
still form a serious item to the bulk of Spaniards; consequently those
who travel in the public carriages in Spain are the class who would in
other countries travel per post. It must, however, be admitted that all
travelling in the public conveyances of the Continent necessarily
implies great discomfort to those accustomed to their own carriages; and
with every possible precaution the long journeys in Spain, of three to
five hundred miles at a stretch, are such as few English ladies can
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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