The whole of this garrisoned Noah’s ark is placed under the command of
the _Mayoral_ or conductor, who like all Spanish men in authority is a
despot, and yet, like them, is open to the conciliatory influences of a
bribe. He regulates the hours of toil and sleep, which latter--blessings,
says Sancho, on the man who invented it!--is uncertain, and depends on
the early or late arrival of the diligence and the state of the roads,
for all that is lost of the fixed time on the road is made up for by
curtailing the time allowed for repose. One of the many good effects of
setting up diligences is the bettering the inns on the road; and it is a
safe and general rule to travellers in Spain, whatever be their vehicle,
always to inquire in every town which is the _posada_ that the diligence
stops at. Persons were dispatched from Madrid to the different stations
on the great lines, to fit up houses, bed-rooms, and kitchens, and
provide everything for table, service; cooks were sent round to teach
the innkeepers to set out and prepare a proper dinner and supper. Thus,
in villages in which a few years before the use of a fork was scarcely
known, a table was laid out, clean, well served, and abundant. The
example set by the diligence inns has produced a beneficial effect,
since they offer a model, create competition, and suggest the existence
of many comforts, which were hitherto unknown among Spaniards, whose
abnegation of material enjoyments at home, and praiseworthy endurance of
privations of all kinds on journeys, are quite Oriental.
[Sidenote: BEDS FOR TRAVELLERS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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