In some of the new companies every expense is calculated in the fare, to
wit, journey, postilions, inns, &c., which is very convenient to the
stranger, and prevents the loss of much money and temper. A chapter on
the dilly is as much a standing dish in every Peninsular tour as a
bullfight or a bandit adventure, for which there is a continual demand
in the home-market; and no doubt in the long distances of Spain, where
men and women are boxed up for three or four mortal days together (the
nights not being omitted), the plot thickens, and opportunity is
afforded to appreciate costume and character; the farce or tragedy may
be spun out into as many acts as the journey takes days. In general the
order of the course is as follows: the breakfast consists at early dawn
of a cup of good stiff chocolate, which being the favourite drink of the
church and allowable even on fast days, is as nutritious as delicious.
It is accompanied by a bit of roasted or fried bread, and is followed by
a glass of cold water, to drink which is an axiom with all wise men who
respect the efficient condition of their livers. After rumbling on, over
a given number of leagues, when the passengers get well shaken together
and hungry, a regular knife and fork breakfast is provided that closely
resembles the dinner or supper which is served up later in the evening;
the table is plentiful, and the cookery to those who like oil and garlic
excellent. Those who do not, can always fall back on the bread and eggs,
which are capital; the wine is occasionally like purple blacking, and
sometimes serves also as vinegar for the salad, as the oil is said to be
used indifferently for lamps or stews; a bad dinner, especially if the
bill be long, and the wine sour, does not sweeten the passengers’
tempers; they become quarrelsome, and if they have the good luck, a
little robber skirmish gives vent to ill-humour.
[Sidenote: THE GALERA.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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