Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
We become fully impressed with the changes that time produces, not only
in things, but in the moral aspect of the world, by seeing a town like
Florence. In our age, the man who should dream of making an inland
place, in the heart of the Apennines, the focus of trade, would be set
down as a simpleton; nor could any powers of combination or of wealth
now overcome the efforts of those who would naturally resort to more
favourable positions.
These old merchants, however, men who truly ennobled commerce, and not
commerce them, have left behind them more durable remains of their
ascendency than can be seen in almost any other place. As they were
not particularly pacific, the constant struggles of factions in the
streets induced a style of architecture that is almost peculiar to
Florence, for every palace is a sort of fortress. We took an apartment
in one that belongs to an ancient family who still inhabit a portion
of the building, and as our rooms are on the street, we may be said to
occupy the fortress. The great gate is of iron, and the great stairs,
of course, massive and solid. The lower floor is occupied only for the
offices and stables. Then comes what is called a _mezzinino_, or a low
story, with small windows, but which has some very good rooms. Above
this is our apartment, with ceilings nearly twenty feet high, large
rooms all _en suite_, and windows to look out of which we ascend two
steps. The walls would bear considerable battering, though the position
of the house protected it from any danger of such a nature. Forty or
fifty stout-hearted retainers, and the number would not be great for
the old Florentines, must have been able to stand a respectable siege
in such an abode.
You will ask me what are my impressions, on finding myself entrenched
behind such works, with a thousand recollections of the Medici and
the Strozzi, and the Capponi, to awaken the love of the romantic and
interesting? Alas! I am filled with the consciousness of the impotency
of man, who, after rearing these piles, and guarding against the
violence and ungovernable passions of his fellows, is obliged to allow
that all his resources cannot keep out the musquitoes.
We have two noble bed-rooms, besides several smaller; a large
drawing-room, and a larger dining-room; a good cabinet for myself; an
ante-chamber, and baths, offices, &c., &c., all furnished, for the
moderate sum of sixty dollars a month. We have ten good rooms in all,
besides the offices.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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