Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Our hotel has a small court, and, I believe, a garden; though I have
not had access to the latter. By the side of the great gate is a small
hole in the wall, closed in general by a shutter. At eleven o’clock
every day, people come to this shutter and rap, and it is opened by
a steward of the family. The applicant puts in an empty flask and a
paul (ten cents), receiving in return a flask filled with wine. In
this manner, I understand, most of the great families of Florence now
dispose of the products of their vines! It would be curious to learn
if the Medici carried on this trade. The wine of our palace is among
the best of Tuscany, and I drink it with great satisfaction; the more
so because its cost is about four cents the bottle. It is positively
much better wine than half the claret that is drunk in Paris. Twice a
week, a donkey appears in the court, dragging a little cart filled with
flasks from the estate, and carrying away the “dead soldiers.” We are,
however, a little above the market, as our wine commands fully a cent
a flask, or about four mills a bottle, more than most of the Tuscan
liquor.
We burn in our lamps oil that you would be happy to get on your
lobsters and salads. In other respects the market is good, and cloths
are both fine and cheap, finer and cheaper than I remember to have seen
them any where else, and yet they are imported! The shop-keepers are
moderate in their wishes, preferring the _dolce far niente_ to the more
terrible _energies_ of trade.
There is a sleepy indolence in these Italians, that singularly suits my
humour. They seem too gentlemanlike to work, or to be fussy, but appear
disposed to make a _siesta_ of life, and to enjoy the passing moment.
The Tuscans seem full of sentiment, and though the poor, as is the case
all over the continent of Europe, are very poor, the class immediately
above them have as much satisfaction, I fancy, as they who dream
dollars and talk dollars from “the rising of the sun unto the going
down of the same.” If you ask me if I would exchange populations and
habits, I shall answer, we cannot afford it. It would check our career
short of perfect civilisation. We have arts to acquire, and tastes to
form, before we could enter at all into the enjoyments of these people;
one half of their pleasures depending on recollections that possibly
may have had their origin in the _energies_ of the first of the
Medici; and there are things that must be created, but which give more
satisfaction in after ages than during the period of their formation.
For myself, I begin to feel I could be well content to vegetate here
for one half my life, to say nothing of the remainder. All who travel
know that the greatest pleasure is in the recollections; and I fancy
that nations in their decline enjoy more true happiness than nations in
their advance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account