Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
After passing the morning in this manner, we took flight for Pisa.
These republics must have had warm neighbourhoods formerly, for the
distance between the two towns is only a single relay. The respective
plains are separated by a noble pile of the Apennines, a mountain that
is isolated, and which serves admirably as a party-wall between the
capitals. The first glimpse we had of Pisa was of its tower and domes,
the houses and walls lying so low as scarcely to come into the view.
There was a line of respectable aqueduct, leading from the mountain,
however, to give notice of the proximity of civilisation. The country,
too, was fertile and well cultivated, but much less so than that of
Lucca.
Pisa is a place to be seen, for it was once of note, and has curious
remains of its former power. There is a palace, and the Tuscan court is
here at this moment, passing a few weeks in it every winter, the town,
nothwithstanding, is dull and half-depopulated, noble houses being to
be had for prices almost nominal.
The chief interest of Pisa is concentrated in a single corner, where
the cathedral, the baptistery, the Campo Santo, and the leaning tower
are all to be found within a few feet of each other. They are all
within the walls, as indeed is a good deal of vacant ground; both
Florence and Pisa, like Rome, appearing to have shrunk from their
ancient dimensions.
You probably know that it is a disputed point whether the tower, or
_campanile_, was built at its present inclination, or whether it sunk
on one side from a defect in the foundations. I shall take side with
those who espouse the former opinion. By looking at an engraving
you will perceive that this tower is composed of seven distinct
compartments, externally, each being ornamented with its own columns.
Internally it is merely a circular flight of steps, that lead to
the gallery of the bells. Now the four lowest of these compartments
lean materially, the two next less, and the last is almost, if not
absolutely, perpendicular. I think these facts go to show that the
tower was built in this form; for had it sunk when only half completed,
it is scarcely probable that the artist would have persevered: he would
have taken down the materials and laid the foundations anew. Then there
is no crack, no dislocation of the columns, not the least derangement
of the parts within or without, to denote a violent change of position.
The principal reasons for supposing that it has sunk since erected, are
the manner in which one side of the foundation appears to be buried,
and the fact that there is an ancient painting which represents the
tower as upright.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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