Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
As for the first of these facts, it strikes me that an architect silly
enough to erect such a monstrosity would be as likely to begin his
folly at the bottom as any where else. The painting may be explained.
It is a fresco picture of the town, in the cloisters of the Campo
Santo, and no part of the tower is represented but the summit, which
appears above the adjoining buildings. I have told you already
that this summit is perpendicular, or so nearly so as to have that
appearance when abstracted from the rest of the tower. Besides, the
tower itself leans but one way, and taken in two positions, it of
course presents nothing extraordinary. Now the view in the picture
is precisely in one of these positions, or _en profile_. You will
remember, moreover, that the bit of tower seen in the painting is but
small, and that it is an accessory in which foreshortening would not
be much attended to had the artist been equal to such an attempt:
but, in fact, the whole work is of no great merit, and the entire
perspective is indifferent.
I am of opinion that this tower was built as it now stands, until a
point was reached where the architect thought it necessary to vary the
line, which, it would seem, he did twice before reaching the summit.
Caprices of this sort are not unknown; most men, indeed, fancying it a
greater achievement of genius to make a thing that is extravagant than
a thing whose merit consists in its exquisite fitness. A thousand will
exclaim at the manner in which cloth, or a bit of lace, is represented
in a picture or a statue, to one who will fully feel the beauty and
repose of the expression of either.
The effect of the leaning tower, when standing in the upper gallery,
is what one might imagine. It requires a slight effort of reason to
look down without a sensation of fear; for it is like looking over a
precipice. The view is fine, and for the first time in twenty years I
got a sight of the blue waters of the Mediterranean. We saw the island
of Gorgona, and overlooked a sea of plain. Had the day been finer, we
should have enjoyed the prospect more.
The cathedral is a droll medley of beauty, and of a barbarous taste.
The dome struck me as low and mean, and some of the details as good as
others are bad. But these are subjects of which I say little, too many
folios already existing on such matters. I liked the baptistery very
much.
As for the Campo Santo, who has not heard of it? It is contained within
cloisters, the monuments being under cover, and the space occupied by
the bodies is not larger than a considerable court in a palace. In this
place one might pass weeks in agreeable but melancholy contemplation.
In the baptistery we saw a priest by the font, muttering something, and
drawing near, found he was baptising a child. Religious rites, under
establishments, get to be rather common-place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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