Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
There are few spots in Europe of superior interest to this corner of
Pisa; and yet there is a little chapel on the quay, called _Santa Maria
della Spina_, that is worthy to be here, the tradition running that
it is the repository of a thorn from the crown of the Saviour. It is
a miniature edifice of marble, and one of the most grotesque little
things I have ever seen, in its way; quite equal to the celebrated
town-house of Louvain. The style is termed here _il Gotico Moresco_,
to distinguish it from _il Tedesco_, or what is here called the German
Gothic. There is a good deal of Moorish architecture in Tuscany, or
that which approaches it, if not quite pure, the court of the Medici
palace at Florence being in this oriental style. I think it singularly
beautiful in its place, especially for cloisters and courts. The
chapel in question is of black and white marble,--a taste that suits
its general quaintness, but which impairs the majesty of severer
architecture.
After passing the night in Pisa, we galloped across the wide plain to
Leghorn. The sea-air was grateful, even in winter, and I snuffed the
odour of this delightful sea with a delight that was “redolent of joy
and youth.” We got into a very good inn kept by a Scotchman, and soon
exhausted the wonders of the place. It is not easy for one who has not
been in Europe, to appreciate the difference that exists between its
capitals and its commercial towns. Leghorn is rather an interesting
town, and has even a few respectable points of poetic interest; but it
had an atmosphere of trade, that struck us forcibly on entering it.
It has canals within the walls, is fortified, and has some very good
streets.
We ordered dinner, and hurried off to the port. Here we feasted our
eyes on the different picturesque rigs and peculiar barks of this
poetical sea. Long years had gone by since I had seen the felucca, the
polacre, the xebec and the sparranara, and all the other quaint-looking
craft of the Mediterranean: for, whatever may be said of the
utilitarian qualities of our own vessels, poetry has had no more to
do with them than it has had to do with any thing else in the land. I
do not believe we are without poetic feeling as a people; but we are
sadly deficient in the ordinary appliances of the art. As we strolled
along the mole and quays, we met several men from the Levant; and an
Algerine Rais was calmly smoking his _chibouque_ on the deck of his
polacre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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