Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
After the chariot-races, we had the _corso dei barberi_, or a race
between barbs. The horses were without riders, and the track was the
longest street of the town. To this amusement every one who could
went in a carriage, and the _corso_ of vehicles was much the most
interesting part of the exhibition. Two lines are made, and the coaches
move in opposite directions through the same street, on a walk. Of
course, everybody sees everybody,--and pretty often the somebodies, see
nobodies, for the mania to make one on these occasions is so strong,
that half the artisans are abroad in carriages, as well as their
betters. The royal equipages moved in the line, the same as that of
the milliner. When we were well tired of looking at each other, the
grand duke went into a gallery prepared for him, and the race was run.
The latter does not merit a syllable; but so strong is the rage for
sporting, that I heard some Englishmen betting on the winner.
But the amusements of the evening were really fine. They consisted of
fireworks and illuminations, besides an odd scene on the river. It is
only for a few of the summer months that the “Silver Arno” deserves
its reputation; for I scarcely know a more turbid or dingy stream
during the period of high water. Indeed it brings down with it from the
mountains so much yellow earth, that “Golden Arno” would better express
its tint. But, at this season, it is placid and silvery. Care has been
taken to make it a river all the year round, in the town at least, by
raising a dam just at the suburbs, which causes the water to fill the
bed between the quays even in the dry months. Below this dam, it would
be possible for an active man, aided by a leaping-staff, to jump across
the channel. This is the common character of the Italian rivers, which,
fed by the mountains, are turbulent torrents in the winter, and ribands
of water in the hot months. Many are absolutely dry in midsummer.
We were kindly invited to witness the fête on the Arno, from the palace
of the Comte de St. Leu, the windows of which overlooked the river.
The party was small, but it contained several members of the Bonaparte
family. Among others was the Comtesse de Survilliers, or, a name she
is better known by, _la Reine Julie_; and that fine young man the
Prince Napoleon, with his wife, the Princess Charlotte, so well known
in America. The Prince and Princess of Musignano, with their children,
made up the family party.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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