Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
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Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 2 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
Breakfast over, we left the inn and were about to walk ahead of the
carriages, as the chariot and three came rolling down the declivity into
the village. Seeing us apparently in possession, the _Grognon_ thrust
out his head, gave a growl and an order, and the equipage moved proudly
on, as if it disdained stopping. We followed, telling the servants they
would find us on the road below. To our surprise, at the bottom of the
hamlet we met the _Grognon_ and his party on foot, walking sulkily back
towards the inn, with the manner of people humbled by misfortune, and
yet not totally above indignation. The last house was the eating-house
in question, and stopping to inquire, we discovered that he had heard of
the two roasted fowls, in Foligno probably, and finding us at the inn,
had pushed on to seize these devoted birds, which, alas! were already
eaten. Necessity has no law, and this gallant man was compelled to
subdue his stomach, lest his stomach should subdue him. We sympathized
with his situation, precisely as the well-fed and contented are apt to
sympathize with the unlucky and hungry; or, in other words, we
determined that, in an extremity, one might breakfast even on bread. W——
affirmed that the man was rightly served;—“Let him take a fourth horse,
instead of compelling three to drag that heavy chariot up these
mountains, if he wish to eat chickens.”
The road was beautiful the remainder of the day. It had at first a sort
of camera-lucida wildness about it; a boldness that was quite pleasing,
though in miniature, after the grandeur of the Alps; and as the day drew
towards a close, we rolled, by a gradual and almost imperceptible
descent, into a lovely region, affluent in towns, villas, hamlets, and
all the other appliances of civilized life. This was in the March of
Ancona, and our day’s work terminated at Tolentino, a place celebrated
for one of Napoleon’s early negotiations.
Tolentino stands on an insulated hill, in the midst of a beautiful but
broken country, and it struck us as a place more important as lying near
this pass, than from any other cause. The Serra valle, a gorge in the
road above, has a reputation, but it is not of Swiss frightfulness.
Earlier in the spring and in winter, however, the passage of the Col
Fiorito is a matter of more gravity. Starvation was the only danger on
this occasion. We watched impatiently the arrival of the _Grognon_, but
he disdained entering within the walls of Tolentino that night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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