Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
The sorting is done by women and children in a large room; each sorter
stands before a table frame, covered at the top with wire cloth,
containing about nine meshes to the square inch. To this frame a long
steel blade is attached, in a slanting position, as shown in Fig. 2;
and the sorter divides the rags into shreds by drawing them against
the sharp edge of this knife; a good deal of the dust which is shaken
out in this operation falls through the wire-cloth into a box beneath.
The sections of rag are thrown into the compartments of the frame,
according to their fineness. In importing rags, some attention is paid
to their quality by the foreign dealers, so that each bale is tolerably
uniform. Formerly, this was not the case, and in sorting a bale the
woman had a piece of pasteboard hung from her girdle and extended on
her knees, upon which with a long sharp knife she unripped seams and
stitches, and scraped off any adhering dirt. The rags were sorted,
according to their fineness, into the _superfine_, the _fine_, the
_stitches_ of the fine, the _middling_, the _seams_ and _stitches_
of the middling, and the _coarse_. These divisions are more or less
observed at the present day. The very coarse parts are rejected or laid
aside for making white-brown paper.
The sorted rags are washed with hot water and alkali, in an apparatus
formed exactly on the principle of the _bucking keirs_ or _puffers_,
described under BLEACHING (June number, 1852); or the washing
is performed at one of the mills or engines described below.
The rags are ground into pulp in mills, now made sufficiently powerful
to reduce the strongest and toughest rags. Formerly, before the
invention of mills, or when they were of much less power, it was
customary to pile the rags in large stone vats, and leave them for a
month or six weeks with frequent stirring and watering to ferment or
rot, by which means the fibres became sufficiently loose to be reduced
to pulp by pounding in wooden mortars with stampers.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
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