Fashion -- 19th century -- Periodicals; United States -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Women's periodicals, American
The quality of the rags depends very much upon the state of
civilization of the countries which produce them; the lower the degree
of civilization, the more coarse and filthy are the rags. When the rags
are received at the mill, they are sorted according to their respective
qualities; for if rags of different qualities were ground at the same
engine, the finest and best parts would be ground and carried off
before the coarser were sufficiently reduced to make a pulp. In the
sorting of rags intended for the manufacture of fine paper, hems and
seams are kept apart, and coarse cloth separated from fine. Cloth made
of tow should be separated from that made from linen, cloth of hemp
from cloth of flax. Even the degree of wear should be attended to, for
if rags comparatively new are mixed with those which are much worn, the
one will be reduced to a good pulp, while the other is so completely
ground up as to pass through the hair strainers; thus occasioning not
only loss of material, but loss of beauty in the paper; for the smooth
velvet softness of some papers may be produced by the finer particles
thus carried off. The pulp produced from imperfectly sorted rags has a
cloudy appearance, in consequence of some parts being less reduced than
others, and the paper made from it is also cloudy or thicker in some
parts than in others, as is evident on holding a sheet up before the
light. When it is necessary to mix different qualities of rags together
to produce different qualities of paper, the rags should be ground
separately, and the various pulps mixed together afterwards.
The rag-merchants sort rags into five qualities, known as Nos. 1,
2, 3, 4, and 5. No. 1, or _superfine_, consisting wholly of linen,
is used for the finest writing-papers. No. 5 is canvas, and may,
after bleaching, be used for inferior printing-papers. There is also
_rag-bagging_, or the canvas sacks in which the rags are packed; also
cotton colored rags of all colors, but the blue is usually sorted out
for making blue paper. Common papers are made from rag-bagging and
cotton rags.
An operation sometimes required after unpacking the rags, is to put
them into a _duster_, which is a cylinder four feet in diameter and
five feet long, covered with a wire net and inclosed in a tight box to
confine the dust. A quantity of rags being put into this cylinder, it
is made to rotate rapidly on its axis, and thus a good deal of dust is
shaken out, which might otherwise vitiate the air of the rag-cutting
room.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--CUTTING RAGS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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