Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852Various
General
Graham's Magazine, Vol. XLI, No. 5, November 1852
Various
Literature -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals
Were I to discuss, to describe, or even cursorily to touch on the social
characteristics of any one of the numerous classes of Continental
coffee-houses, I should require a book rather than a column. The subject
is one so cosmopolitan, so intimately bound up with the progress of
civilization, that, while ostensibly penning a paper on coffee-shops, I
should be in reality writing a history of the manners, customs and
social peculiarities of the peoples who were coffee-drinkers. So,
seductive as are the temptations of Continental coffee-shops, I will not
venture to touch upon them now. I will reserve for a more convenient
opportunity the brilliant Parisian _cafés_, and the consideration of the
influence they have had upon the progress of the decorative arts in
France; I will reserve the coffee-houses of Germany where pipes and
dominoes are the rule, and clean coffee-cups and clean waiters the
exception; the _cafés_ of Venice and Milan; the _cafés_ and _cafejis_ of
Stamboul and Smyrna; the coffee-houses where there are concerts; where
there are dramatic performances; where there are orchestras recruited by
blind men; where there are dances and orgies, and feasts of cucumbers
and hard eggs, as on the Port at Antwerp; where circulate massive white
tureens of coffee considerably modified, or aggravated by schnaps, as at
the great pilots’ coffee-house, the “Kœning Leopold” at Ostend.
Of the present state and position of coffee-shops in one country, I feel
myself called upon, however, briefly to treat. The coffee-houses of
London have, within the last thirty years, done, to my mind, so much
good; have worked such important results, and offer so many curious
questions for solution, both social and commercial, that I should be
unjust were I to pass them over. I mean the genuine, orthodox, London
coffee-houses--coffee-shops, if you will; where coffee is dispensed to
the million at varying rates of one penny, three half-pence, and
two-pence per cup; where eggs, bread and butter, bacon, and similar
refreshments are provided at moderate rates; but where no ardent spirits
or fermented liquors of any kind are either demanded by the customers or
conceded by the proprietors; where--in lieu of the glasses that were
wont to circle round the board, and the good company that was wont to
fall underneath it in the old-fashioned coffee-houses--there is provided
for the serious, well-conducted frequenters, a feast of newspapers and a
flow of cheap periodicals. You and I can remember when such
coffee-houses were not. If, in the old time, we wanted a cup, a dish or
a bowl of coffee, we were compelled to go to the coffee-room of an hotel
for it; provided always that we did not care to consume it at home. And
coffee at home, even, was in those days, not by any means a faultless
compound. Our aunts and mothers and sisters were blindly attached to
certain prejudices and superstitions respecting the fining or clearing
of coffee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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