Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
At my feet, and separated from the river by a narrow strip of land
covered with bushes, was a long pool of bluish-gray water, in marked
contrast with the yellow stream. Above it floated a very light mist, or,
rather, haze. Following with the eye a little stream of the same
coloured water which entered it, past a primitive mill, I saw that it
debouched from another pond similar in colour, and evidently its source,
and to this our path was conducting us. It was the first of the hot
sulphur springs of Amatha, celebrated by Eusebius as being much
frequented in the time of the Romans, and famous for their healing
qualities. We soon reached its margin, and, dismounting, tethered our
horses under the shade of a large tree, and stretched ourselves for a
rest after our ride, preparatory to a slight repast and a more minute
investigation of the springs and the ruins by which they are surrounded.
Our nostrils were regaled by a strong odour of rotten eggs, which left
no doubt in our minds as to the quality of the water in the immediate
neighborhood. We were here at a depression of five hundred and fifty
feet below the surface of the sea, but the climate, which must be
intolerably hot in summer, was at this time of year delightful. We were
soon sufficiently rested to scramble down to the pool, only a few yards
below us, which was about fifty yards long by thirty broad, and
apparently five or six feet deep. The temperature was 98°, and the taste
of the water very strongly sulphurous. Then we ascended a mound behind,
covered with ruins, consisting principally of fragments of columns,
carved stone seats, and drafted blocks which had been used for building
purposes. Immediately behind this mound was an extensive ruin,
consisting of three arches in a fair state of preservation. Two of the
arches were fifteen or twenty feet high, and enclosed a semicircular
space or hall for bathers. On the other side was a vaulted building
which partly enclosed what is at this day the only frequented spring.
This is a circular pool. Part of the old masonry which enclosed it still
remains. The pool is about twenty-five feet wide, with a temperature so
high that I found it impossible to keep my hand in it. To my great
astonishment, and to theirs also when they saw me suddenly appear, four
or five Arabs were bathing in it. How their bodies could support the
heat was to me a mystery. They did not support it long. They were no
sooner in than out, their bodies looking as much like lobsters as the
complexion of their skins would permit. They laughed, and invited me to
join them. One or two were stretched full length on the identical stone
slabs under the building on which, doubtless, two thousand years ago,
the bathers of that date used to repose after having been half boiled
alive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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