Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The views from the house in which I am living are a never-ending source
of delight. To the east I look over the native town and harbour, with
the date-groves and the plain of the Kishon beyond, backed by the wooded
range which separates it from the plain of Esdraelon. To the northeast
the eye rests on the picturesque outline of the mountains of northern
Palestine, with the rounded top of Jebel Jernink rising to a height of
4000 feet in the middle distance, and snow-clad Hermon towering behind
to a height of 9000 feet. Immediately to the north, across the blue
waters of the bay, the white walls and minarets of Acre rise from the
margin of the sea, and beyond it the coastline, terminating in the white
projecting cliff known as “The Ladder of Tyre.” To the northwestward we
look across a plain about a mile wide, containing the colony lands, and
beyond is the sea horizon, till we turn sufficiently to meet Carmel
bluff and monastery. Behind us the mountain rises precipitously,
throwing us at this time of the year into shade by three in the
afternoon. But even on New-Year's Day we do not grudge the early absence
of the sun, for as I write the thermometer is standing at 66° in the
shade. It is not, however, the features of the scenery which constitute
its chief beauty, but the wonderful variations of light and shade, and
the atmospheric effects peculiar to the climate, which invest it with a
special charm. On the plain to the west of the colony, which is bounded
on two sides by the sea, on one by the mountain, and on one by the
colony, are the traces of the old town of Haifa, mentioned in the
Talmud, but not in the Bible, which was besieged and taken by storm by
Tancred, the crusader, in 1100, with a massive ruin of sea-wall and
other remains, from which I have already dug out fragments of glass and
pottery. Behind are the almost obliterated remains of an old fort, with
here and there a piece of limestone cropping up, bearing the marks of
man's handiwork.
Everywhere in Palestine we come upon the evidences of its antiquity.
This plain, now made to yield of its abundance under the skilful labour
of the German colonists, is no exception, for in the time of the Romans
it was the site of the city of Sycaminum, and in the groovings of rocks
upon which the sea now breaks we see the traces of what were its baths;
in the mounds we find fragments of old masonry and cement; in the
depressions we see signs of wells, and in the rock cuttings of tombs.
Only the other day I found, while digging in the garden for the prosaic
purpose of planting cabbages, a fragment of polished agate which
probably formed a part of the tessellated pavement of some Roman villa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account