Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
So the process of decay and reconstruction goes on, and man is ever
trying to rear something new on the ruins of the old. Let us hope that
the sixty or seventy substantial houses of the new colony are but the
outward and visible signs of that moral edifice which these good people
have come to Palestine to erect, and that from the ruins of a crumbling
ecclesiasticism they may build a temple worthy the worship of the
future.
EXPLORING MOUNT CARMEL.
Haifa, Feb. 7.—It was my fate as a child to live in a country-house in
Scotland, of which one half was some centuries old, with stone walls
several feet thick, and circular stone steps leading up into a
mysterious tower, which was supposed to be haunted, and in which it was
rumoured that a secret chamber existed, built in the wall, and I
remember perfectly that certain places seemed to sound hollow to blows
of a crowbar, which as I got older, I used to apply to suspected
localities. It is more years than I care to think of since those days,
but I can trace a resemblance to that childish feeling in the sensations
by which I am animated when I wander over the gloomiest recesses of
Carmel alone in search of caverns.
It is called in some ancient Jewish record “the mountain of the thousand
caves,” and has been inhabited from time immemorial by hermits and
religious devotees. Independently of the Biblical record, we have
historical traces of its holy character. According to the most ancient
Persian traditions, sacred fire burned at the extreme western point of
Carmel. Suetonius speaks of the oracles of the god of Carmel, and
Alexander the Great repeats the saying. The Syrian city, Ecbatana,
alluded to by Pliny, was situated on this mountain. Pythagoras lived
here in retreat for some time because it had a reputation for superior
sanctity, but Strabo mentions the caves as being haunts of pirates. They
were doubtless used as places of refuge for bad characters, as well as
of seclusion for pious ones. Others were used for tombs, others for
crusaders' sentry-boxes, and now they are the retreat of flocks and
herds, and in some instances storehouses for grain.
Those, however, thus utilized are comparatively few in number; I believe
many to be unknown even to the natives, while others are invested by
them with a mysterious character, and their dimensions are probably
exaggerated. I have received accounts of some, which I hope to visit,
which are said to extend beyond any known exploration, of others which
bear traces of carving and inscriptions, but nothing can be more
uncertain or unsatisfactory than native accounts upon all matters where
definite information is required. I have tried exploring with guides and
exploring alone, and have been almost as successful one way as the
other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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