Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
withstood, the town was completely destroyed, so that the crusading army
had to remain in tents, and here it was that the lion-hearted king
caught that severe fever which gave rise to reports of his death, and
which resulted in his remaining for four weeks at Haifa to recover his
health. That plain is as unhealthy now as it was then, and the
date-groves, which are its most striking feature, must have existed
then, for they are mentioned in the records of the year 1230, when King
Amalrich II. died of a surfeit of sea-fish, for which the place is
celebrated.
To return to Rushmea. The whole hill-top is covered with the traces of
remains far anterior to the ruins of crusading times. Everywhere we come
upon the solid limestone foundations of what must have been large
buildings; there are flights of steps hewn in the rock, large square
cuttings from which blocks have been taken, places where circular holes
have been drilled, grooves, niches, and excavations. On a plateau about
a hundred yards to the west is a series of massive stone arches in a
very fair state of preservation. I found the elevation of Rushmea, by my
aneroid, to be as nearly as possible seven hundred feet above the sea.
In a valley behind it, and a hundred feet below it, are a dozen
olive-trees of immense age, and near them a celebrated spring, called
the Well of Elisha. It is not above twelve feet deep, and, on descending
into it, I found that it was in fact not a spring, but a subterranean
stream which enters a receptacle formed for it in the rock, from a cave
at the side, and from which it disappears again. Instead of returning
from Rushmea by the way I had come, I pushed up to the head of the
valley in which the spring is situated. On two of the hills which rise
from it I found terraces and the foundations of stone edifices. Indeed,
wherever one wanders in Carmel, one is apt to stumble upon these
substantial records of its bygone history. As the mountain is about
thirteen miles long and nine miles wide at its southeastern extremity,
and as every valley and hillside and plateau has at one time or other
been inhabited, and as many of these remain still to be explored for the
first time, there is abundant field for investigation, and it is
impossible to take a ride or a scramble in any direction without coming
upon some object of interest. Nor is it possible to lose one's way when
alone, except to a limited extent, for the nearest hill-top, if you can
get to it, is sure to let you know where you are.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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