Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Thus leaving Rushmea without a guide, and soon without a path, I pushed
through the scrub, now dismounting and driving my horse before me, now
forcing him, much to his discomfort, through the prickly bushes. Even at
this time of year the hills are bright with scarlet anemones, and the
delicate pink or white cyclamen, and fragrant with aromatic odours as we
crush through the shrubs. Suddenly I came upon the foundations of a
wall, which I followed for about a hundred yards, and which was about
four feet in thickness. Near it, half hidden by the bushes, was a
circular block of limestone about five feet high and the same in
diameter, in the centre of which had been drilled a hole. It looked like
the section of some gigantic column such as we see in some of the
temples of Upper Egypt; but it stood alone, and I fail to imagine its
design. Possibly it may have been used for sacrificial purposes. Shortly
after I found myself on a high, level plateau, where the soil was so
excellent, and the rocks had so far disappeared, that it would do
admirably for farming purposes. It seemed to extend over some hundreds
of acres. Formerly, the whole of these fertile tracts of Carmel were
covered with magnificent forests—even in the memory of man—but of late
years the demand for charcoal has so much increased that the mountain
has been almost completely denuded of trees, and although a strict order
has been issued by the government against the felling of timber, it
still continues, and, thanks to the system of backsheesh, the export of
charcoal from Haifa last year exceeded that of any previous year.
Keeping westward by my compass I soon after struck a path, and finally
dropped down upon the German colony near Haifa, after a day's ramble
through the most delightful scenery, every step of which was replete
with historical association and antiquarian interest.
THE VALLEY OF THE MARTYRS.
Haifa, Feb. 12.—A more thorough examination of the rocky hillsides of
the Carmel promontory in the vicinity of the celebrated monastery than I
have been hitherto able to give it, has revealed many spots of interest,
and one in particular, which seems to have escaped the observation of
the Palestine Exploration Fund Survey. About two miles and a half from
Haifa the road to Jaffa passes between a projecting spur of the range
and a mound about a hundred feet high, which formed the centre of the
ancient city of Sycaminum, and which probably conceals some interesting
remains, which I hope some day to be able to unearth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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