Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
It is safer to dismount after passing this spring, as we now have to
cross the smooth surface of the limestone rock as we follow the steep
path that leads up to the ruin of the old monastery, the position of
which is indicated by the remains of an enormous wall which nearly
reaches across the gorge, looking from below like some huge dam, and
which must have concealed the monastery itself from public gaze, except
from the hills above. We are now struck by the extraordinary
petrifactions over which we are passing. The path is worn deep by
centuries into the soft limestone, in the sides of which appear layers
of petrified twigs and branches of the bushes of a bygone period. They
are perfectly white, except where fractures exhibit the black flint
core; but in some instances the form of the branch is perfect with all
its twigs. Passing under the projecting buttress of the dam-like wall,
we suddenly open on a terrace covered with vines and fruit-trees on one
side, and find ourselves at the mouth of a large cave on the other.
Entering this, if we are willing to brave the fleas—for, as it is
generally inhabited by an Arab family, they abound—we find that we are
in a spacious apartment supported by a column of solid rock, while all
around are mangers for horses, cut out of the stone. Of these we count
fourteen, which will give some idea of the size of the cave. Probably in
crusading times it was a cavalry outpost, affording, from its strong
natural position and proximity to the plain of Sharon, a splendid point
of vantage from which to pounce upon an unsuspecting enemy.
Ascending from the cave by some steps to the terrace, we come
unexpectedly upon a delicious spring overshadowed by spreading
fig-trees, which fills with crystal water a basin that has been hollowed
out of the overhanging rock; from this it trickles into another
stone-cut reservoir, from whence it is led by a stone channel, hollowed
by the monks, to the monastery itself, one small room of which is still
standing. The rock rises perpendicularly behind, and is scooped here and
there into recesses, which were formerly, doubtless, the cells of monks,
while the cool shade of spreading fruit-trees, the beauty of the view,
the presence of running water, and the ever-blowing southwest wind, of
which they got the full benefit, must have modified to a considerable
extent the austerities of their existence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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