Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The bodies were embalmed, wrapped in cloths, as we read in Scriptural
accounts of burials, notably in that of our Saviour. “Each in his narrow
cell forever laid,” they remained undisturbed until rude hands, ages
afterwards, “rolled away the stone from the mouth of the cave” and
rifled the contents.
Some of the entrances to the chambers had been completely filled up. In
such cases the partition wall of rock had been broken through. Some of
the chambers were larger than others, and there were two tiers of
loculi. In order to get from one chamber to another it was often
necessary to drag yourself along at full length upon the ground. In one
case the roof had been broken through into a chamber above, and this
probably led to more.
I had not time fully to explore this most curious and interesting spot.
Examinations of this sort in the middle of a long day's ride are very
fatiguing. The effort of scrambling about on all fours, or after the
fashion of the serpent, is very great, and makes you very dirty. In the
absence of a string you are haunted by the idea of not being able to
find your way back, to say nothing of the chance of sticking in one of
these narrow passages. Altogether, I entered about fifteen different
chambers, and doubtless the others did not differ in any important
particulars. I am afraid, however, that I was not the first to discover
them, but that this honour rests with Captain Conder, Royal Engineers,
of the Palestine Exploration Fund. The sheik told us he had once before
guided a foreigner to this locality, and on the next cave we visited we
found the letters R. E. scratched in red paint on the rock, which under
these circumstances can only mean Royal Engineers.
The next cave was a much more comfortable one to examine, though not
nearly so interesting. You could walk about it comfortably, but there
was no ornamentation. The chambers were larger, but there were only five
or six of them. The stone coffins had, in many instances, been
completely destroyed, but the massive stone columns, or rather blocks,
of living rock which supported the roof were finer than those in the
“Cave of Hell.” Perhaps it owed its more dilapidated condition to the
largeness of its entry, and its proximity to another huge cave which had
evidently in crusading times been converted into a Christian place of
worship. According to a rough measurement obtained by pacing it, the
nave was seventy feet by thirty, the apse eighteen by twenty-one, and
two apse-shaped transepts about twenty by eighteen; but these were very
much filled with rubbish. The height of the cave was about thirty feet.
The whole formed a subterranean church, which, in its perfect condition,
when entered from the hillside, must have presented a very imposing
appearance. On the slope of the hill, not far from this cave, was the
carved pedestal of a granite column, and near it a handsome stone
sarcophagus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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