Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
THE ROCK-HEWN CEMETERY OF SHEIK ABREIK.
Nazareth, Feb. 18.—There is a low range of hills, about five hundred
feet above the sea-level, half-way between Haifa and Nazareth. It is
beautifully timbered with oak-trees, and cut up into the most charming
valleys. Running almost due north and south, it divides the plain of
Esdraelon from that of Acre. Its southern extremity, terminating
abruptly, forms a small gorge with the Carmel range, through which the
Kishon forces its way to the sea. It was during a heavy rain-storm a
week ago that I approached the ford of this river from Haifa. It was not
without trepidation, for the stream had been so swollen by recent rains
that communication with the interior had been interrupted. It was
doubtful whether the passage of this river, which almost dries up in
summer, would not involve a ducking. I therefore prudently requested my
companion to precede me into the yellow, swirling stream, and although
the water came up to our saddle-bags, the horses managed to get across
without losing their footing. Then we galloped into the oak-woods. The
sun broke out from behind the clouds, and we determined to prosecute our
search for certain caves, of the existence of which we had heard, and
which, owing to the state of the weather, we had almost decided to
abandon.
Leaving the high-road to Nazareth to the right, we followed a path for
about half an hour which took us to the village of Sheik Abreik. It was
a miserable collection of mud hovels, in the muddiest of which dwelt the
sheik. After much palaver and promises of abundant backsheesh we got him
to admit the existence of the caverns of which we were in search, and
persuaded him to be our guide to them. The first was called by the Arabs
“The Cave of Hell.” Its entrance seemed to justify the ill-omened
appellation. It was a steep, sloping tunnel into the bowels of the
earth, just large enough to admit the passage of a man's body. To slide
into this feet foremost after a heavy rain involved a coating of mud
from top to toe. After going down a few yards we found a chamber in
which we could stand erect. Here we lighted our candle and looked about
us. We found that it was the first of a series of similar chambers
opening one into another. Each contained loculi, hewn out of the solid
rock. The entrances to these chambers were arched. The pilasters on each
side of the entrance were in some cases ornamented with rude sculptures
and decorated with designs in a yellow pigment. These were in the form
of curves, scrolls, and circles, and were carried over the roof. Each
chamber was about ten feet long by six feet wide, and on an average
contained three tombs or loculi, one across the chamber, facing the
entrance, and one on each side. There do not seem ever to have been lids
to these stone receptacles for the corpses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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