Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
orthodox are generally to be found siding with the Moslems against Roman
Catholics and Melchites.
To this sect belong some of the wealthiest and most aristocratic
families in Syria. As the ordinary traveller is not often brought into
contact with them, I was not sorry for the opportunity which my
residence furnished me of witnessing their Easter observances. At
midnight on the Saturday preceding Easter Sunday the festival is
announced by a great consumption of gunpowder. An uproar which would do
credit to a prolonged skirmish lasts till the early mass. The Melchite
church is the largest and most imposing in Haifa. It is enclosed in a
courtyard, round one side of which runs a balcony. At an early hour on
Sunday morning the whole population turns out in its grandest attire.
The men wear short embroidered jackets, with long sleeves slashed to the
elbow, waistcoats of brilliant colours and innumerable buttons,
bright-coloured sashes, and baggy trousers. The women are in flowing
white robes, which, drawn over their heads, are held under their chins,
only partially concealing their gay head-dresses sparkling with coins,
and their low-cut vests, gaudy with gold or silver embroidery. The
children are especially subjects of decoration in costume, and strut
about in the brightest of garments, plentifully ornamented with gold
lace and flowers.
The narrow street leading to the church is tolerably crowded as we force
our way along until we suddenly meet a loud-voiced procession, the
priests, accompanied by choristers, keeping up a discordant nasal chant
as they march round the church with the image of the Saviour on a
crucifix, with red and green banners, and with swinging censers,
followed by a miscellaneous crowd, all carrying tapers. This occurs
three times. Afterwards the church square fills with a noisy crowd of
men. The windows and housetops which command a view of it are filled
with female spectators, who are not allowed to mingle freely with the
men. On the stairs leading to the housetops are clustered the tawdrily
dressed little girls, upon whom no such restriction is imposed, and
then, if I may be pardoned the expression, the religious fun may be said
to begin. It consists in letting off squibs, crackers, pistols, and guns
till the spectator is almost deafened. The men form themselves in a
circle so large that it fills the whole courtyard, each man throwing his
arms right and left round his neighbour's neck, and, lifting up his
voice in a discordant scream, which is supposed to have some musical
connection with the screams of all his neighbours. It is a dull dance,
although noisy. Everybody makes ungainly steps in time, yelling and
leering at each other in an idiotic manner, and letting off their guns
when impelled to do so by excitement. As far as I could make out, their
songs were rather of an amorous than a religious character.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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