Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
When this entertainment came to an end a seedy-looking character entered
the arena with an open Bible in his hand. He proceeded up the stairs to
the open balcony, whither he was followed by the armed crowd who had
been dancing. These ranged themselves right and left beside him, and he
commenced in Arabic to read in a loud voice a chapter from the Gospel of
St. John. When he had read a certain number of verses he paused, and
about a hundred guns went off in a sort of _feu de joie_. Then he read
on, while his audience loaded their guns. Then he paused again. They
fired again, and so on all through the chapter, thus emphasizing as it
were the most striking passages by periodical explosions of gunpowder.
When this was over the church bell rang, and some priests with round,
high-crowned hats and locks flowing over their shoulders made their
appearance. I was told by a Melchite friend that there was no use in
going to church now, as everybody intended to go and get drunk and pay
visits, and indulge in more dancing of a less restrained character, but
that there would be a better mass on the following day, because the
French consul was going to attend in full uniform, and everybody would
be there.
This Easter festival lasts three days. The merriment increases and
culminates on the last day, at the expiration of which everybody has
given proof of his religious devotion by arriving at a blind state of
intoxication. When in this sanctified condition disturbances not
unfrequently occur between these Christian worshippers and the Moslems,
in whose mind Christian religious ceremonial is inseparably connected
with drunken riots and wild orgies. The Caimakam or Turkish governor of
the town, fearing that the strict observance of Easter according to
their custom on the part of the Melchites might lead to these results,
issued an order that on Easter Monday and the day following no firing
was to be allowed, but the Melchites replied to the police officer
charged with enforcing this order, that they had no intention of obeying
it. A serious difficulty might have occurred were it not for the
intervention of the English and French vice-consuls, who gave the
Melchites to understand that the Turkish authority must be respected. It
was a curious illustration of the state of Turkish administration here
that a Turkish governor should have to appeal to foreign consuls in
order to secure compliance on the part of Turkish subjects with his own
orders. When I attended mass on the following day there was no firing.
With the exception of the French consul, my friends, and myself, the
whole congregation stood. Three priests officiated at an altar unusually
tawdry, and a group of men and boys kept up a stentorian nasal chant
from first to last. They were accompanied by an orchestra of two men,
each of whom had a pair of common steel table knives, with which they
kept up a most ear-splitting clatter on the rim of a copper bowl, that
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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