Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
might on ordinary occasions have been used for salad. The
incense-swingers puffed fumes of incense into the faces of the French
consul and myself as being honoured guests, and a priest brought him an
open Bible to kiss, but abstained from offering it to me—on religious
grounds best known to himself. Then he painted a good many people with
holy water, using a piece of cotton put on the end of a wire. Then there
was the usual procession and elevation of the Host, and the more devout
members prostrated themselves and kissed the flagstones of the church.
The sacrament was administered, the bread and wine being mixed together
in a silver cup, which was held over an embroidered napkin stretched
between two boys, so that none of the contents fell to the ground as the
priest put the teaspoonful into the mouths of those who knelt before
him. The women did not seem to need it, as they were all bottled up in a
gallery, and could only see or be seen through a lattice-work.
The service came to an end, and the people divided to allow the French
consul, who, with his cocked hat and gold lace, had been the figurehead
of the ceremony, to march out in state. These French consuls are all
very pious men in Syria. The French government, which has been ejecting
monks and nuns and closing religious establishments, and making laws
against religious instruction in France, is very particular about the
religious principles of their representatives in Syria; as a member of
the French government recently remarked, “Religion is only useful as an
article of export.” Thus, the French consul-general at Beyrout goes to
mass on Easter Sunday with the Roman Catholics. On Easter Monday he
attends mass with the Maronites, and on Tuesday he worships with the
Melchites, thus dividing his favours equally, and patronizing with great
impartiality any heresies he may happen to come across.
As the correct thing among the Melchites after being at church is to go
and “have something to drink,” I followed the usual custom and paid a
visit to my Melchite friend's family. The ladies of his establishment,
in gorgeous attire, pressed beer and wine and raki, and sweetmeats and
cakes and coffee, upon our enfeebled digestion. We smoked narghilès, and
enlightened our minds upon Melchite manners and customs. As I passed
through the outskirts of the town on my return home, I came upon the
male Melchite population indulging in their circular dance and their
discordant chants. They continued on the following day, stimulated by a
plentiful indulgence in intoxicating liquors, thus to glorify God, and
to celebrate the resurrection of the Saviour among men.
THE JEWISH QUESTION IN PALESTINE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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