About this time the fashions began to travel northward from Italy, through Paris to London, and caps, hats, and bonnets of various and fantastic shapes were introduced. (See figures opposite.) As Shakspeare said:— Report of fashions in proud Italy, Whose manners still our tardy, apish nation Limps after, in base imitation. _Richard II., Act II., Scene 1._ [Illustration: 19 20 England, A.D. 1300.] In England, artificial flowers were unknown till the reign of Edward III., A.D. 1041. Artificial flowers, those beautiful imitations of the “stars of the earth,” are brought to such perfection that they almost rival the blossoms they are intended to imitate. In France, during the reign of Charles VIII., in 1483, it is recorded that head-dresses were lowered considerably; but in the portrait of Mary of Burgundy, we find that she still wore the favorite towering cap that had been fashionable for two hundred years before her time, with the veil hanging to the ground and a square piece lying upon the neck and shoulders. It is a hard thing to say, but the women might have carried the Gothic building, this steeple head-dress, much higher had it not been for a famous monk, Thomas Conects by name, who attacked it with great zeal and resolution. This holy man travelled around to preach down this monstrous style, and succeeded so well, that, as the magicians sacrificed their books to the flames upon the preaching of an Apostle, so many of the women threw down their head-dresses in the middle of his sermon, and made a bonfire of them within sight of the pulpit. He was so renowned, as well for the sanctity of his life as his manner of preaching, that he would often have twenty thousand people at a time to listen to him. The men placed themselves on one side of the pulpit and the women on the other, and the latter appeared (to use the similitude of an ingenious writer) like a forest of cedars with their heads reaching to the clouds, but, like snails in a fright, drew their horns in, to shoot them out again as soon as the danger was gone. [Illustration: 21 1000, A.D. 22 1000, A.D. 23 1200, A.D. France. 24 1200. 25 French.] Whenever they wore them in public, they were pelted down by the rabble with stones; but, nevertheless, they mounted them again after a short time. The customs of the Norman peasants in many respects differ from those of Britain. The head-dress called Burgonin is the most remarkable and conspicuous part of their attire. The weaving of gold and silver threads into ribbon and cloth, which is now in use, is no new idea; it was ascribed by Pliny to King Attalus, about sixteen hundred years ago. [Illustration: 26 27 28 1300 29 30 31 French, A.D. 1400.] “Here, on a fair one’s head-dress, sparkling sticks, Swinging on silver springs, a coach and six; There, on a sprig or slop’d pourpon, you see A chariot, sulky, chaise, or vis-a-vis.” In the same poem we read:—