“Nelly! where is the creature fled?
Put my post-chaise upon my head.”
In Germany the styles seem to have differed but little from those of
France, as, no doubt, France at that date furnished the styles for the
world, as she does to-day.
Fig. 32 was copied from the “Nuremberg Chronicle” of A.D. 1493.
Fashion wears out more than women do.
[Illustration: 32 33 34
Germany, A.D. 1450.
35 36 37
15th Century.]
As we advance in these pages one would suppose we ought to be exhibiting
styles more quiet; but, on the contrary, when we look at Figures 38 and
39, which have been selected from miniatures in MSS., it would seem that
improvement was made in the wrong direction.
The caps shown on the opposite page, in Figs. 40, 41, and 42, were worn
in the reign of William and Mary in 1688, and were quite becoming.
In 1750 there was a change for the worse, and as we advance to Figs. 43,
44, and 45, we find them ridiculous.
In 1789, as in Figs. 46 and 47, there is nothing added to their beauty.
Here fashion, motley goddess, changing still,
Finds ready subjects to obey her will,
Who laugh at nature and her simple rules.
[Illustration: 38 39
40 41 42
43 44
45
46 47]
Figures 48 and 49, illustrating the Restoration of A.D. 1830, indicate a
reaction against the Voltairean philosophy and French Revolution, and a
return to chivalry and devotion.
At this period they were heart-shape in front, in remembrance of Mary
Stuart, imitating an open carriage, hiding the charms of the fair face
underneath from the passer-by.
In 1850 a modification is observable, as shown in Fig. 50.
As we arrive at the fashions of 1870 (Fig. 51), we begin to feel more at
home. Of course each generation thinks its own styles are just right, but
in centuries to come modistes, no doubt, will look back upon our present
styles as we do on the fashions of centuries past.
Such is life.
[Illustration: 48 49
Head-dress during the Restoration in A.D. 1830.
50
A.D. 1850.
51
A.D. 1870.]
LADIES’ DRESS CAPS.
As yet no mention has been made of caps, but a great many of the
illustrations of simple head-covering resemble caps more than hats or
bonnets, although not so designated. Figs. 52, 53, and 54 are dress caps
worn by the French in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Fig. 55
shows a new style of dress cap called the “Thyra,” composed of Bretonne
lace, ribbon, and flowers; the crown being of dotted lace.
Fig. 56 is a muslin breakfast cap called the “Langtry,” made of
Valenciennes lace, falling over the front, finished with an Alsatian bow,
and the crown of Swiss muslin.
Fig. 57 is a new and novel idea called the “Turban,” composed entirely
of a large silk handkerchief. This is much worn for a dinner or evening
toilet. The last three styles are taken from the originals at
WADLEIGH’S
Fashionable Millinery and Cap Rooms,
BOSTON.
[Illustration: 52 53
1750. French.
54
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