Highways and Byways in Cambridge and ElyConybeare, John William Edward
History
Highways and Byways in Cambridge and Ely
Conybeare, John William Edward
Cambridgeshire (England) -- Description and travel; Isle of Ely (England) -- Description and travel
At the church the road divides. The northern branch meanders through
the village past an ancient row of old-time almshouses to the station,
beyond which it becomes a pretty lane leading to the adjoining
villages of Great and Little Wilbraham. The church at the former has a
tower arch of strikingly peculiar development, a tall lancet, flanked
by segments of arches of much larger radius, inserted in the wall on
either side, which support the central member somewhat in the fashion
of flying buttresses. The parson here, "a widower with three small
children" (as the Puritan report gloatingly points out), was ejected
in 1644 by the Puritans, because "he said it was treason for any man
to give any money against the King, and in his sermons discouraged his
parish from doing anything for the Parliament, and that he never read
any book coming from the Parliament." Caution should be observed in
passing through these villages, as sundry well-seeming roads simply
lead down to Fulbourn Fen[156] and end there. Springs feeding the fen
are plentiful, and the ground is still very much of a swamp.
[Footnote 156: See p. 170.]
But the road to take from Fulbourn Church is that which winds away
south-eastwards, for in less than three miles it will bring us to the
Icknield Street,[157] close to the point where that famous war-path
cuts through the no less famous Fleam Dyke. This is the best place for
viewing and ascending that splendid prehistoric earthwork, the sister
and rival of the Devil's Dyke. It makes a most fascinating byway to
walk along, though it leads nowhither, ending abruptly where it dips
down into Fulbourn Fen.[158] The dry chalk is clothed with flowers
all the summer through. At Easter time we may here find the glorious
purple Pasch-flower, that queen of all the anemone clan; later on "the
turf is sweet with thyme and gay with yellow rock-rose, blue flax,
milkwort, pink-budded dropwort, sainfoin, kidney vetch, and viper's
bugloss, and here and there a bee orchis; with a dancing accompaniment
of butterflies overhead, graylings, skippers, chalk hill and Bedford
blues, and a host beside."[159]
[Footnote 157: See p. 171.]
[Footnote 158: Footpaths, however, lead across the fen from its
termination to Fulbourn and to Wilbraham.]
[Footnote 159: Hughes' _Geography of Cambs_, p. 77.]
[Illustration: _Great Wilbraham Church._]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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