Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
evenings of a week," to defray his mother's funeral expenses. Surely,
if ghosts ever walk, they must walk in these historic abodes. It was
my lot lately to search for rooms in one of the Inns (I will not
invidiously specify which). The rooms were romantic enough, at a
cursory glance; further investigations revealed, I regret to say, the
fact that romance was depressingly dark, as well as unduly favourable
to rats, mice, and the unholy black-beetle; to say nothing of a
general and indescribable musty smell.
"How long have these rooms been vacant?" I inquired, with some faint
show of cheerfulness, of the frowsy "laundress," a Dickensy lady with
an appalling squint and a husky voice suggestive of the bottle.
"W'y, not to say long, 'm. On'y a year come nex' Wensday. Though not
to deceive you 'm, the larst gempleman as lived 'ere, 'e give the
place a bad name."
"What did he do?" I inquired, startled.
"W'y, 'e had the 'orrors dreadful; 'e did away with 'isself; _that's
where it is_" (with increased huskiness).
I looked tremblingly at the panelled walls, the blackened ceiling, the
faded carpet. Was it fancy, or did I see a darker patch in the
threadbare web, and the shadow of a dusky Roman pointing from the
ceiling (as in Dickens's murder of Mr. Tulkinghorn) threateningly at
that darker stain? "'Orrors"! I thought; and no wonder! Romance, rats,
and old panelling are, no doubt, beautiful in their way; but hardly
suitable to prosaic, everyday life.
It is, perhaps, in these old Inns, that, more than anywhere else in
London, the past is linked with the present. Much the same did they
look, their red brick perhaps a trifle less charmingly darkened by
time, in the days when fair ladies and gallant gentlemen walked in
their green plots, the ladies in the quaint clinging dresses of the
Georgian era, the gentlemen in the gay lace ruffles and knee-breeches
of that picturesque period in dress. If London stones could speak,
what stories could they tell! The old elm trees, planted by Bacon
(Lord Verulam) that shade so charmingly the cool green sward of Gray's
Inn, were comparatively youthful when Mr. Pepys walked with his
lady-wife in that historic enclosure "to observe the fashions of the
ladies, because of my wife making some clothes." Time enough, surely,
for the trees to have developed a quite Wordsworthian seriousness!
There were many rooks in these gardens; but these have lately
disappeared, owing, thinks Mr. Hare, "to the erection of a corrugated
iron building near them some years ago"! Possibly Mr. Hare credits the
rooks with an æsthetic feeling for beauty!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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