Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
The wonderful collection of historic armour in the imposing "White
Tower" is, even to those who are not connoisseurs on the subject, of
great interest and beauty. It is true that there are a great many very
narrow and steep stone stairs to be climbed; but in the end you are
duly rewarded for your trouble. The ancient chapel of St. John, at the
top of the winding stairway, is most strikingly picturesque, and
especially so on a sunny day, when the light plays among the bare
stone columns. This "most perfect Norman chapel in England" is
striking in its unadorned severity of style; and the stilted horseshoe
arches of its apse are somewhat like those of St. Bartholomew the
Great, at Smithfield. The chapel dates from the year 1078, and has
been the scene of many royal pageants and lyings-in-state. The
Banqueting Hall adjoins it; here are to be seen, among other
curiosities, models of the rack and thumbscrew, and the block used for
the execution of old Lord Lovat, with Lords Balmerino and
Kilmarnock--the last Royalists executed here--in 1745. The hall
contains also much armour and many weapons. Above is the "Council
Chamber," where King Richard II. abdicated his throne in favour of his
cousin Henry Bolingbroke.
"I think men must really have got bigger since these old days,"
remarked a burly policeman, to whom I was communicating my
impressions: "Now, you wouldn't think it, but there's only two suits
of armour in the whole place that I could even manage to get on me,
that's old Henry VIII.'s, and his brother-in-law what's beside 'im,
Charles Brandon, Dook o' Suffolk--you see 'em? over there, in the
middle. Not but what they must have been strong too, of their size, to
bear all that there weight of steel on 'em. I'd be sorry to do it
myself, I know that. It's a wonder they didn't faint, and their poor
horses, too!"
One of the most beautiful pieces of armour in the collection is that
made for Henry VIII. on his marriage with Katharine of Arragon. It is
of German manufacture, with deep and heavy skirts, on the edge of
which is a pierced border, with the initials "H" and "K" entwined in a
true-love knot. This suit of armour is, further, adorned with
elaborate designs, probably from Hans Burgmair or one of his school,
from the lives of St. George and St. Barbara, patron saints of England
and of armourers. In Stuart times the suits of mail, and armour
generally, became less heavy; and vizors and breastplates are often of
open-work; most picturesque of all, perhaps, is the dress of the
link-bearers of Charles I.'s time. The armour, and arms generally, are
kept in a fine state of polish, wonderful to see in a land of fog and
river mist. "The soldiers, you see, they have a turn at the spears and
things when they want a job; but, of course, the armour, and such as
that, is left to two or three people's special business."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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