Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The ascent for 2,800 feet was up a very steep, dry, zigzag path,
amongst mica slate rocks (strike north-east), on which grew many
tropical plants, especially the "Tukla," (_Rottlera tinctoria_), a
plant which yields a brown dye. The top was a flat, curving
north-west and south-east, covered with temples, chaits, and mendongs
of the most picturesque forms and in elegant groups, and fringed with
brushwood, wild plantains, small palms, and apple-trees. Here I saw
for the first time the funereal cypress, of which some very old trees
spread their weeping limbs and pensile branchlets over the
buildings.* [I was not then aware of this tree having been introduced
into England by the intrepid Mr. Fortune from China; and as I was
unable to procure seeds, which are said not to ripen in Sikkim, it
was a great and unexpected pleasure, on my return home, to find it
alive and flourishing at Kew.] It is not wild in Sikkim, but imported
there and into Bhotan from Tibet: it does not thrive well above 6000
feet elevation. It is called "Tchenden" by the Lepchas, Bhoteeas,
and Tibetans, and its fragrant red wood is burnt in the temples.
Illustration--GROUP OF CHAITS AT PASSIDING.
The Lamas met us on the top of the hill, bringing a noble present of
fowls, vegetables and oranges, the latter most acceptable after our
long and hot march. The site is admirably chosen, in the very heart
of Sikkim, commanding a fine view, and having a considerable river on
either side, with the power of retreating behind to the convents of
Sunnook and Powhungri, which are higher up on the same spur, and
surrounded by forest enough to conceal an army. Considering the
turbulent and warlike character of their neighbours, it is not
wonderful that the monks should have chosen commanding spots, and
good shelter for their indolent lives: for the same reason these
monasteries secured views of one another: thus from Tassiding the
great temple of Pemiongchi was seen towering 3000 feet over head,
whilst to the north-west, up the course of the river, the hill-sides
seemed sprinkled with monasteries.
We camped on a saddle near the village of Sunnook, at 4000 feet above
the sea; and on the last day of the year we visited this most
interesting monastic establishment: ascending from our camp along the
ridge by a narrow path, cut here and there into steps, and passing
many rocks covered with inscriptions, broken walls of mendongs, and
other remains of the _via sacra_ between the village and temple.
At one spot we found a fissure emitting hot vapour of the temperature
of 65.5 degrees, that of the air being about 50 degrees. It was
simply a hole amongst the rocks; and near the Rungeet a similar one
is said to occur, whose temperature fluctuates considerably with the
season. It is very remarkable that such an isolated spring should
exist on the top of a sharp ridge, 2,800 feet above the bottom of
this deep valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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