Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The general arrangement on the summit was, first the Lamas' houses
with small gardens, then three large temples raised on rudely paged
platforms, and beyond these, a square walled enclosure facing the
south, full of chaits and mendongs, looking like a crowded cemetery,
and planted with funereal cypress (_Cupressus funebris_).
The house of the principal Lama was an oblong square, the lower
story of stone, and the upper of wood: we ascended a ladder to the
upper room, which was 24 feet by 8 wattled all round, with prettily
latticed windows opening upon a bamboo balcony used for drying grain,
under the eaves of the broad thatched roof. The ceiling (of neat
bamboo work) was hung with glorious bunches of maize, yellow, red,
and brown; an altar and closed wicker cage at one end of the room
held the Penates, and a few implements of worship. Chinese carpets
were laid on the floor for us, and the cans of Murwa brought round.
The Lama, though one of the red sect, was dressed in a yellow
flowered silk robe, but his mitre was red: he gave us much
information relative to the introduction of Boodhism into Sikkim.
The three temples stand about fifty yards apart, but are not parallel
to one another, although their general direction is east and west.*
[Timkowski, in his travels through Mongolia (i. p. 193), says,
"According to the rules of Tibetan architecture, temples should face
the south:" this is certainly not the rule in Sikkim, nor, so far as
I could learn, in Tibet either.] Each is oblong, and narrowed
upwards, with the door at one end; the middle (and smallest) faces
the west, the others the east: the doorways are all broad, low and
deep, protected by a projecting carved portico. The walls are
immensely thick, of well-masoned slaty stones; the outer surface of
each slopes upwards and inwards, the inner is perpendicular.
The roofs are low and thickly thatched, and project from eight to ten
feet all round, to keep off the rain, being sometimes supported by
long poles. There is a very low upper story, inhabited by the
attendant monks and servants, accessible by a ladder at one end of
the building. The main body of the temple is one large apartment,
entered through a small transverse vestibule, the breadth of the
temple, in which are tall cylindrical praying-machines. The carving
round the doors is very beautiful, and they are gaudily painted
and gilded.
Illustration--DOORWAY.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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