History of Indian and Eastern ArchitectureFergusson, James
History
History of Indian and Eastern Architecture
Fergusson, James
Architecture -- India; Architecture, Asian
The general appearance of these corridors may be gathered from the
annexed woodcut (No. 201), but no engraving, even on a much more
extended scale, can convey the impression produced by such a display of
labour when extended to an uninterrupted length of 700 ft. None of our
cathedrals are more than 500 ft., and even the nave of St. Peter’s is
only 600 ft. from the door to the apse. Here the side corridors are 700
ft. long, and open into transverse galleries as rich in detail as
themselves. These, with the varied devices and modes of lighting,
produce an effect that is not equalled certainly anywhere in India. The
side corridors are generally free from figure-sculpture, and
consequently, from much of the vulgarity of the age to which they
belong, and, though narrower, produce a more pleasing effect. The
central corridor leading from the sanctuary is adorned on one side by
portraits of the rajas of Ramnad in the 17th century, and opposite them,
of their secretaries. Even they, however, would be tolerable, were it
not that within the last few years they have been painted with a
vulgarity that is inconceivable on the part of the descendants of those
who built this fane. Not only they, however, but the whole of the
architecture has first been dosed with repeated coats of whitewash, so
as to take off all the sharpness of detail, and then painted with blue,
green, red, and yellow washes, so as to disfigure and destroy its effect
to an extent that must be seen to be believed. Nothing can more
painfully prove the degradation to which our system has reduced the
population than this profanity. No upper class, and consequently no
refinement, now remains, and the priesthood, instead of being high bred
and intellectual Brahmans, must be sunk into a state of debasement from
which nothing can now probably redeem them.
Assuming, however, for the nonce, that this painting never had been
perpetrated, still the art displayed here would be very inferior to that
of such a temple as, for instance, Hullabîd, in the Mysore, to be
described further on. The perimeter, however, of that temple is only 700
ft.; here we have corridors extending to 4000 ft., carved on both sides,
and in the hardest granite. It is the immensity of the labour here
displayed that impresses us, much more than its quality, and that,
combined with a certain picturesqueness and mystery, does produce an
effect which is not surpassed by any other temple in India, and by very
few elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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