The works of Scotland's Mary, who early studied all female accomplishments
under her governess, Lady Fleming, {11}are too well known to require
notice. In her letters are constant demands for silk and other working
materials wherewith to solace her long captivity. She had also studied
under Catherine de Médicis, herself an unrivalled needlewoman, who had
brought over in her train from Florence the designer for embroidery,
Frederick Vinciolo. Assembling her daughters, Claude, Elizabeth and
Margaret, with Mary Stuart, and her Guise cousins, "elle passoit," says
Brantôme, "fort son temps les apres-disnées à besogner apres ses ouvrages
de soye, où elle estoit tant parfaicte qu'il estoit possible."[35] The
ability of Reine Margot[36] is sung by Ronsard, who exalts her as imitating
Pallas in the art.[37]
Many of the great houses in England are storehouses of old needlework.
Hatfield, Penshurst, and Knole are all filled with the handiwork of their
ladies. The Countess of Shrewsbury, better known as "Building Bess," Bess
of Hardwick, found time to embroider furniture for her palaces, and her
samplar patterns hang to this day on their walls.
Needlework was the daily employment of the convent. As early as the
fourteenth century[38] it was termed "nun's work"; and even now, in
secluded parts of the kingdom, ancient lace is styled by that name.[39]
Nor does the occupation appear to have been solely {12}confined to women.
We find monks commended for their skill in embroidery,[40] and in the
frontispieces of some of the early pattern books of the sixteenth century,
men are represented working at frames, and these books are stated to have
been written "for the profit of men as well as of women."[41] Many were
composed by monks,[42] and in the library[43] of St. Geneviève at Paris,
are several works of this class, inherited from the monastery of that name.
As these books contain little or no letterpress, they could scarcely have
been collected by the monks unless with a view to using them.
At the dissolution of the monasteries, the ladies of the great Roman
Catholic families came to the rescue. Of the widow of the ill-fated Earl of
Arundel it is recorded: "Her gentlewomen and chambermaids she ever busied
in works ordained for the service of the Church. She permitted none to be
idle at any time."[44]
Instructions in the art of embroidery were now at a premium. The old nuns
had died out, and there were none to replace them.
Mrs. Hutchinson, in her _Memoirs_, enumerates, among the eight tutors she
had at seven years of age, one for needlework, while Hannah Senior, about
the same period, entered the service of the Earl of Thomond, to teach his
daughters the use of their needle, with the salary of £200 a year. The
money, however, was never paid; so she petitions the Privy Council for
leave to sue him.[45]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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