When, in 1614, the King of Siam applied to King James for an English wife, a gentleman of "honourable parentage" offers his daughter, whom he describes of excellent parts for "music, her needle, and good discourse."[46] And these are the sole accomplishments he mentions. The bishops, however, shocked at the proceeding, interfered, and put an end to the projected alliance. [Illustration: PLATE I. ARGENTAN.--Showing buttonhole stitched réseau and "brides bouclées." CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU.--Variety of Mechlin. VENETIAN NEEDLE-POINT. Portions of lace very much enlarged to show details of stitches.] [Illustration: VENETIAN NEEDLE-POINT.] {13}No ecclesiastical objection, however, was made to the epitaph of Catherine Sloper--she sleeps in the cloisters of Westminster Abbey, 1620:-- "Exquisite at her needle." Till a very late date, we have ample record of the esteem in which this art was held. In the days of the Commonwealth, Mrs. Walker is described to have been as well skilled in needlework "as if she had been brought up in a convent." She kept, however, a gentlewoman for teaching her daughters. Evelyn, again, praises the talent of his daughter, Mrs. Draper. "She had," writes he, "an extraordinary genius for whatever hands could do with a needle." The queen of Charles I. and the wives of the younger Stuarts seem to have changed the simple habits of their royal predecessors, for when Queen Mary, in her Dutch simplicity, sat for hours at the knotted fringe, her favourite employment, Bishop Burnet, her biographer, adds, "It was a strange thing to see a queen work for so many hours a day," and her homely habits formed a never-ending subject of ridicule for the wit of Sir Charles Sedley.[47] From the middle of the last century, or rather apparently from the French Revolution, the more artistic style of needlework and embroidery fell into decadence. The simplicity of male costume rendered it a less necessary adjunct to female or, indeed, male education. However, two of the greatest generals of the Republic, Hoche and Moreau, followed the employment of embroidering satin waistcoats long after they had entered the military service. We may look upon the art now as almost at an end. {14}CHAPTER II. CUT-WORK. "These workes belong chiefly to gentlewomen to passe away their time in vertuous exercises." "Et lors, sous vos lacis à mille fenestrages Raiseuls et poinct couppés et tous vos clairs ouvrages." --_Jean Godard_, 1588. It is from that open-work embroidery which in the sixteenth century came into such universal use that we must derive the origin of lace, and, in order to work out the subject, trace it through all its gradations. This embroidery, though comprising a wide variety of decoration, went by the general name of cut-work.