The work is in two books: the first of Point Coupé, or {18}rich geometric
patterns, printed in white upon a black ground (Fig. 2); the second of
Lacis, or subjects in squares (Fig. 3), with counted stitches, like the
patterns for worsted-work of the present day--the designs, the seven
planets, Neptune, and various squares, borders, etc.
Vinciolo dedicates his book to Louise de Vaudemont, the neglected Queen of
Henry III., whose portrait, with that of the king, is added to the later
editions.
Various other pattern-books had already been published. The earliest
bearing a date is one printed at Cologne in 1527.[59]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.
POINT COUPÉ.--(Vinciolo.)]
These books are scarce; being designed for patterns, and traced with a
metal style, or pricked through, many perished in the using. They are much
sought after by the collector as among the early specimens of wood-block
printing. We give therefore in the Appendix a list of those we find
recorded, or of which we have seen copies, observing that the greater
number, though generally composed for one particular art, may be applied
indifferently to any kind of ornamental work.
PLATE III.
[Illustration: Altar or Table Cloth of fine linen embroidered with gold
thread, laid, and in satin stitches on both sides. The Cut out spaces are
filled with white thread needle-point lace. The edging is alternated of
white and gold thread needle-point lace. Probably Italian. Late sixteenth
century.--Victoria and Albert Museum.]
_To face page 18_
{19}Cut-work was made in several manners. The first consisted in arranging
a network of threads upon a small frame, crossing and interlacing them into
various complicated patterns. Beneath this network was gummed a piece of
fine cloth, called quintain,[60] from the town in Brittany where it was
made. Then, with a needle, the network was sewn to the quintain by edging
round those parts of the pattern that were to remain thick. The last
operation was to cut away the superfluous cloth; hence the name of
cut-work.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.
LACIS.--(Vinciolo. _Edition_ 1588.)
Ce Pelican contient en longueur 70 mailles et en hauteur 65.]
{20}The author of the _Consolations aux Dames_, 1620, in addressing the
ladies, thus specially alludes to the custom of working on quintain:--
"Vous n'employiez les soirs et les matins
A façonner vos grotesques quaintains,
O folle erreur--O despence excessive."
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