Again, the pattern was made without any linen at all; threads, radiating at
equal distances from one common centre, served as a framework to others
which were united to them in squares, triangles, rosettes, and other
geometric forms, worked over with button-hole stitch (_point noué_),
forming in some parts open-work, in others a heavy compact embroidery. In
this class may be placed the old conventual cut-work of Italy, generally
termed Greek lace, and that of extraordinary fineness and beauty which is
assigned to Venice. Distinct from all these geometric combinations was the
lacis[61] of the sixteenth century, done on a network ground (_réseau_),
identical with the _opus araneum_ or spider-work of continental writers,
the "darned netting" or modern _filet brodé à reprises_ of the French
embroiderers.
The ground consisted of a network of square meshes, on which was worked the
pattern, sometimes cut out of linen and appliqué,[62] but more usually
darned with stitches like tapestry. This darning-work was easy of
execution, and the stitches being regulated by counting the meshes,[63]
effective geometric patterns could be produced. Altar-cloths, baptismal
napkins, as well as bed coverlets and table-cloths, were decorated with
these squares of net embroidery. In the Victoria and Albert Museum there
are several {21}gracefully-designed borders to silk table-covers in this
work, made both of white and coloured threads, and of silk of various
shades. The ground, as we learn from a poem on lacis, affixed to the
pattern-book of "Milour Mignerak,"[64] was made by beginning a single
stitch, and increasing a stitch on each side until the required size was
obtained. If a strip or long border was to be made, the netting was
continued to its prescribed length, and then finished off by reducing a
stitch on each side till it was decreased to one, as garden nets are made
at the present day.
This plain netted ground was called _réseau_, _rézel_, _rézeuil_,[65] and
was much used for bed-curtains, vallances, etc.
In the inventory of Mary Stuart, made at Fotheringay,[66] we find, "Le lict
d'ouvrage à rezel"; and again, under the care of Jane Kennethee, the
"Furniture of a bedd of network and Holland intermixed, not yet finished."
When the _réseau_ was decorated with a pattern, it was termed _lacis_, or
darned netting, the Italian _punto ricamato a maglia quadra_, and, combined
with _point-coupé_, was much used for bed-furniture. It appears to have
been much employed for church-work,[67] for the sacred emblems. The Lamb
and the Pelican are frequently represented.[68]
{22}In the inventory of Sir John Foskewe (modern Fortescue), Knight, time
of Henry VIII., we find in the hall, "A hanging of green saye, bordered
with darning."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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