The word _passement_ continued to be in use till the middle of the seventeenth century, it being specified as "passements aux fuseaux," "passements à l'aiguille"; only it was more specifically applied to lace without an edge. The term _dentelle_ is also of modern date, nor will it be found in the earlier French dictionaries.[80] It was not till fashion caused the passament to be made with a toothed edge that the expression of "passement dentelé" first appears. In the accounts of Henry II. of France, and his queen, we have frequent notices of "passement jaulne dantellé des deux costez,"[81] "passement de soye incarnat dentellé d'un costé,"[82] etc., etc., but no mention of the word "dentelle." It does, however, occur in an inventory of an earlier date, that of Marguerite de France, sister of Francis I., who, in 1545, paid the sum of VI. livres "pour soixante aulnes, fine dantelle de Florance pour mettre à des colletz."[83] After a lapse of twenty years and more, among the articles furnished to Mary Stuart in 1567, is "Une pacque de petite dentelle";[84] and this is the sole mention of the word in all her accounts. {28}We find like entries in the accounts of Henry IV.'s first queen.[85] Gradually the passement dentelé subsided into the modern dentelle. [Illustration: Fig. 8. GRANDE DANTELLE AU POINT DEVANT L'AIGUILLE.--(Montbéliard, 1598.)] It is in a pattern book, published at Montbéliard in 1598,[86] we first find designs for "dantelles." It contains {29}twenty patterns, of all sizes, "bien petites, petites" (Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12), "moyennes, et grosses" (Fig. 8). [Illustration: Fig. 9. PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] [Illustration: Fig. 10. PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] The word _dentelle_ seems now in general use; but Vecellio, in his _Corona_, 1592, has "opere a mazette," pillow lace, and Mignerak first gives the novelty of "passements au fuzeau," pillow lace (Fig. 13), for which Vinciolo, in his edition of 1623, also furnishes patterns (Figs. 14 and 15); and Parasoli, 1616, gives designs for "merli a piombini" (Fig. 16). [Illustration: Fig. 11. PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] [Illustration: Fig. 12. PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] In the inventory of Henrietta Maria, dated 1619,[87] appear a variety of laces, all qualified under the name of "passement"; and in that of the Maréchal La Motte, 1627, we find the term applied to every description of lace. {30}"Item, quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement, tant de Venise, Gennes, et de Malines."[88] Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the pattern. The plain ground is styled in French _entoilage_, on account of its containing the flower or ornament, which is called _toilé_, from the flat close texture resembling linen, and also from its being often made of that material or of muslin. [Illustration: Fig. 13. PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Mignerak, 1605.)] [Illustration: Fig. 14. PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Vinciolo, _Edition_ 1623.)]