The honeycomb network or ground, in French _fond_, _champ_,[89] _réseau_,
_treille_, is of various kinds: wire ground, Brussels ground, trolly
ground, etc., _fond clair_, _fond double_, etc.
{31}Some laces, points and guipures are not worked upon a ground; the
flowers are connected by irregular threads overcast (buttonhole stitch),
and sometimes worked over with pearl loops (picot). Such are the points of
Venice and Spain and most of the guipures. To these uniting threads, called
by our lace-makers "pearl ties"--old Randle Holme[90] styles them
"coxcombs"--the Italians give the name of "legs," the French that of
"brides."[91]
[Illustration: Fig. 15.
PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Vinciolo, _Edition_ 1623.)]
[Illustration: Fig. 16.
MERLETTI A PIOMBINI.--(Parasole, 1616.)]
The flower, or ornamental pattern, is either made together with the ground,
as in Valenciennes or Mechlin, or separately, and then either worked in or
sewn on (appliqué), as in Brussels.
The open-work stitches introduced into the pattern are called _modes_,
_jours_; by our Devonshire workers, "fillings."
All lace is terminated by two edges, the pearl, picot,[92] or couronne--a
row of little points at equal distances, and the footing or _engrêlure_--a
narrow lace, which serves to keep the stitches of the ground firm, and to
sew the lace to the garment upon which it is to be worn.
{32}Lace is divided into point and pillow (or more correctly bobbin) lace.
The term pillow gives rise to misconceptions, as it is impossible to define
the distinction between the "cushion" used for some needle-laces and the
"pillow" of bobbin-lace. The first is made by the needle on a parchment
pattern, and termed needle-point, _point à l'aiguille_, _punto in aco_.
The word is sometimes incorrectly applied to pillow-lace, as point de
Malines, point de Valenciennes, etc.
Point also means a particular kind of stitch, as point de Paris,[93] point
de neige, point d'esprit,[94] point à la Reine, point à carreaux, à
chaînette, etc.
"Cet homme est bien en points," was a term used to denote a person who wore
rich laces.[95]
The mention of point de neige recalls the quarrel of Gros René and
Marinette, in the _Dépit Amoureux_[96] of Molière:--
"Ton beau galant de neige,[97] avec ta nonpareille,
Il n'aura plus l'honneur d'être sur mon oreille."
Gros René evidently returns to his mistress his point de neige nightcap.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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