Campane lace was also made of gold, and of coloured silks, for trimming mantles, scarfs, etc. We find, in the Great Wardrobe Accounts of George I., 1714,[105] an entry of "Gold Campagne buttons." Evelyn, in his "Fop's Dictionary," 1690, gives, "Campane, a kind of narrow, pricked lace;" and in the "Ladies' Dictionary," 1694, it is described as "a kind of narrow lace, picked or scalloped."[106] In the Great Wardrobe Account of William III., 1688-9, we have "le poynt campanie tæniæ." 5. Mignonette.[107]--A light, fine, pillow lace, called blonde de fil,[108] also point de tulle, from the ground resembling that {35}fabric. It was made of Lille thread, bleached at Antwerp, of different widths, never exceeding two to three inches. The localities where it was manufactured were the environs of Paris, Lorraine, Auvergne, and Normandy.[109] It was also fabricated at Lille, Arras, and in Switzerland. This lace was article of considerable export, and at times in high favour, from its lightness and clear ground, for headdresses[110] and other trimmings. It frequently appears in the advertisements of the last century. In the _Scottish Advertiser_, 1769, we find enumerated among the stock-in-trade, "Mennuet and blonde lace." 6. Point double, also called point de Paris and point des champs: point double, because it required double the number of threads used in the single ground; des champs, from its being made in the country. 7. Valenciennes.--See Chapter XV. [Illustration: Fig. 17. OLD MECHLIN.] 8. Mechlin.--All the laces of Flanders, with the exception of those of Brussels and the point double, were known in commerce at this period under the general name of Mechlin. (Fig. 17.) 9. Gold lace. 10. Guipure. {36}GUIPURE. Guipure, says Savary, is a kind of lace or passement made of "cartisane" and twisted silk. Cartisane is a little strip of thin parchment or vellum, which was covered over with silk, gold, or silver thread, and formed the raised pattern. The silk twisted round a thick thread or cord was called guipure,[111] hence the whole work derived its name.[112] Guipure was made either with the needle or on the pillow like other lace, in various patterns, shades and colours, of different qualities and several widths. The narrowest guipures were called "Têtes de More."[113] The less cartisane in the guipure, the more it was esteemed, for cartisane was not durable, being only vellum covered over with silk. It was easily affected by the damp, shrivelled, would not wash, and the pattern was destroyed. Later, the parchment was replaced by a cotton material called canetille. Savary says that most of the guipures were made in the environs of Paris;[114] that formerly, he writes in 1720, great quantities were consumed in the kingdom; but since the fashion had passed away, they were mostly exported to Spain, Portugal, Germany, and the Spanish Indies, where they were much worn.[115]