The manner of making bobbin lace on a pillow[98] need hardly be described.
The "pillow"[99] is a round or oval board, stuffed so as to form a cushion,
and placed upon the knees of the workwoman. On this pillow a stiff piece of
parchment is fixed, with small holes pricked through to mark the pattern.
Through these holes pins are stuck into the cushion. The threads with which
the lace is formed are wound upon "bobbins," formerly bones,[100] now small
round pieces of wood, about the size of a pencil, having round their upper
ends a deep groove, so formed as to reduce the bobbin to a thin neck, on
which the thread is wound, a separate bobbin being used for each thread.
PLATE VI.
[Illustration: ITALIAN.--Modern reproduction at Burano of Point de Venise à
la feuille et la rose, of seventeenth century.
Width, 8 in. Photo by the Burano School.]
PLATE VII.
[Illustration: Heraldic (carnival lace), was made in Italy. This appears to
be a specimen, though the archaic pattern points to a German origin. The
réseau is twisted and knotted. _Circ._ 1700. The Arms are those of a
Bishop.
Photo by A. Dryden from private collection.]
_To face page_ 32.
{33}By the twisting and crossing of these threads the ground of the lace is
formed. The pattern or figure, technically called "gimp," is made by
interweaving a thread much thicker than that forming the groundwork,
according to the design pricked out on the parchment.[101] Such has been
the pillow and the method of using it, with but slight variation, for more
than three centuries.
To avoid repetition, we propose giving a separate history of the
manufacture in each country; but in order to furnish some general notion of
the relative ages of lace, it may be as well to enumerate the kinds most in
use when Colbert, by his establishment of the Points de France, in 1665,
caused a general development of the lace manufacture throughout Europe.
The laces known at that period were:--
1. Point.--Principally made at Venice, Genoa, Brussels, and in Spain.
2. Bisette.--A narrow, coarse thread pillow lace of three qualities, made
in the environs of Paris[102] by the peasant women, principally for their
own use. Though proverbially of little value--"ce n'est que de la
bisette"[103]--it formed an article of traffic with the mercers and
lingères of the day.
3. Gueuse.--A thread lace, which owed to its simplicity {34}the name it
bore. The ground was network, the flowers a loose, thick thread, worked in
on the pillow. Gueuse was formerly an article of extensive consumption in
France, but, from the beginning of the last century, little used save by
the lower classes. Many old persons may still remember the term, "beggars'
lace."
4. Campane.[104]--A white, narrow, fine, thread pillow edging, used to sew
upon other laces, either to widen them, or to replace a worn-out picot or
pearl.
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