How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should knowDoughty, Frank W.
History
How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should know
Doughty, Frank W.
Locomotives -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
The box can now be placed in the boiler, through the slot cut in the
bottom, taking care that the top of the box is not more than half way
up the boiler, as at B, Fig. 10. This will leave a portion projecting
below the lower edge of boiler like C. This part protects the flame
of the lamp from being blown away by the draught caused by traveling
along, and which would cause you to lose steam. Solder it firmly in
position from the outside to prevent the flame from touching any
soldered portion. Also solder neatly round A, Fig. 10.
The smoke stack can be made from another piece of three-quarter inch
brass; turn it up in your lathe bright and put a collar on it at A Fig.
17, to allow it to push on to the piece of tube left projecting at A
Fig. 10.
The top of the smoke stack, B Fig. 17, will also require turning in the
lathe and must be fitted on neatly.
Get advice from some mechanic about the steam chest, which is a brass
casting and will have to be turned up in the lathe, and after cutting a
circular hole in the top of the boiler of about an inch in diameter it
can be either screwed or soldered on, previously putting the steam pipe
E in position by drilling a hole at F and after bending it as shown,
pass it through at F and solder in place. The top of pipe E should be
about a quarter of an inch from the top of inside of steam chest.
Before soldering on the steam chest drill two holes as at G H Fig. 10,
one for the small lug G to be screwed into, which holds one end of the
lever of the safety valve, and that at H should be drilled conical with
a rimer, and the valve H can be turned in the lathe and afterwards
ground to fit the hole with a little emery and water, by means of a
slot cut across the top and worked round with a screw driver.
The spring case of the safety valve I, Figure 10, is easily made from
a piece of one-eighth inch brass tubing, using some small, hard, brass
wire to form the spring. When finished it should be hooked to the eye
and screwed into the boiler at V.
The manhole or screwhead, K, is used to refill the boiler when it has
steamed low and will have to be turned up to shape, and the bed, L,
which it screws into can be firmly soldered on the boiler, having first
drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw itself,
which should be sufficiently large to allow an ordinary tin funnel to
be used to refill by, and the screw ought to be long enough to hold a
leather washer under the head to keep it steam-tight.
The whistle, M, will require a hole drilled for it to be screwed into,
and that, as also the steam-tap, N, and water-tap, O, can be bought
cheap, ready to put on.
The tap O should be screwed in at a slightly higher level than the top
of box B, and when working the engine should steam issue from it when
turned on instead of water, you ought to immediately blow off steam by
safety valve H. Then unscrew K, and refill the boiler with water.
[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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