How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should know — John Shaqi
How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should knowDoughty, Frank W.
History
How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should know
Doughty, Frank W.
Locomotives -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as those used on
the cylinders, and packed with cotton wick to prevent loss of steam by
leakage. When all this is complete, the forward end of the boiler can
be furnished with a tube-plate riveted on and the tubes flanged over.
Now the boiler must go to a practical brazier, and be properly brazed.
Cut the hole for the steam dome, and let him braze it on at the same
time. If the job is practically done, your boiler can be heated red-hot
without fear.
[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
Meanwhile buy your pressure gauge--it wants to be one and a half inches
in diameter--and let the brazier test your boiler to 100 pounds steam
to the square inch capacity.
Should it burst you will have to make another. If not you need
thereafter have no fears.
Now make the smoke box, which should be three inches deep and of the
shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This and the smoke-stack can be
made of iron, hammered up to shape and finished with a brass ring. The
smoke-box can be screwed on the forward flange or boiler.
The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it should be
hammered to. In the center a hole should be drilled through which to
pass the screw used to close it, which is attached to the loose bar, A.
The handle, B, is then screwed up tight.
The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap the opening
about half an inch and have a couple of bright iron or brass eyes, C,
riveted on to form the hinge.
Next comes the back-pressure valve, Fig 36. A is a front view with
plate by which it is bolted to the boiler, as at W, Fig. 20.
It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A with top and
bottom covers and the ball-valve B, which ought to be ground with a
little emery and oil to fit perfectly. It acts in this manner.
The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and passes into the
boiler. On the up stroke of pump, the pressure is removed from under
B and the pressure of steam in the boiler causes it to fall back and
close the opening entirely, preventing any water from passing away from
the boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of the boiler
near the furnace to support it on bed-plate level with smoke box.
The boiler should now be covered with flannel, cut to shape and wrapped
round the body part and a casing of sheet tin put over it and secured
by brass bands and small nuts underneath--as shown in Fig. 20.
The steam supply pipe can now be connected with the cylinders and
it should be made forked as in Fig. 37. A leads from steam pipe and
branches off to each cylinder, where it must be screwed up with white
lead.
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