How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should knowDoughty, Frank W.
History
How to become an engineer : $b containing full instructions how to proceed in order to become a locomotive engineer : also directions for building a model locomotive; together with a full description of everything an engineer should know
Doughty, Frank W.
Locomotives -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
The exhaust pipes B B should be of larger tubing and bent round up the
sides of the smoke box so as to be out of the way when you have to
clean the tubes. A small brass pipe, C, must also be passed through the
chimney, bent upwards and fitted with a tap which should take the steam
from the top of the boiler and be used as shown at D F Fig. 20. This
helps to raise steam very quickly.
Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot plate and shows the necessary
fittings which you must either make or buy to complete the model.
The cocks you might make but the water gauge you must buy. A is the
furnace door, B two gauge taps, C starting-lever handle, D spring
balance safety valve, F wind-guard with two look-out holes, G steam
whistle handle, H pressure gauge, N the quadrant and lever for
reversing the engine, O the rear buffer beam with buffers, P the wheels
showing axle, R R the springs for same and V the safety-guard rail on
either side.
[Illustration: Fig. 30.]
[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
When these fittings are all complete holes must be drilled in rear
plate for each piece; they must be firmly screwed in place with white
lead. The glass tube of the water gauge, the stuffing-box, and the
gland of the starting lever should be closely packed with tallow and
cotton wick.
[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
Next paint the entire model over again and let it dry. We give no
directions as to colors; use your own taste. After the paint is
thoroughly dry varnish with the best clear, hard varnish and let it dry
again.
While it is drying you can be making the rails.
Get some square bar iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if you wish the
rails to be portable, and drill a hole in each end half an inch deep.
The rails can be joined together at each end by means of a piece of
wire and kept at a proper distance apart by being fastened to pieces
of wood placed like sleepers, fastened by screws passing through holes
drilled in the rails every six inches. These sections can be laid
end to end, and your line be made as long as you wish. If you want a
circular line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one
about 30 feet in diameter is suitable for this model.
When finished place your locomotive on the track and get up steam. Fill
the boiler with water by means of a funnel until you see it rise up
three parts of the way in the glass water-gauge. Then see that all taps
are turned off and start the fire. Charcoal is the best fuel, as it
gives a clear, hot fire without much smoke once you start it right.
Try the safety-valve occasionally to see how your steam is getting on,
and when it begins to form turn on the blast-tap, which will soon draw
up the fire, and you will presently see the pressure rise and show
itself in the pressure-gauge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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