Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
Faroe is the stepping stone to Iceland. I have visited it on seven
different occasions, have passed through nearly every one of its numerous
channels, wandered through the villages, attended a country auction much
like that held in the rural districts of New England, climbed the lower
slopes of its hills which overlook the fiords, witnessed the marvelous
bird life and learned a little about the quaint inhabitants and my
experience has been such that I can cordially recommend these lofty
islands as a delightful spot for a summer’s holiday. The tourist will
be given all necessary assistance and information, whether he desires
to paint, fish in the little lakes of the glacial valleys, accompany
the fowler in his dangerous occupation upon the cliffs or journey from
island to island through the wonderful channels with the fishermen. He
will obtain homely but clean and nutritious food, and when the crust of
conservatism is broken and the confidence of the host is secured, he will
pass many an hour in delightful conversation which will store his mind
with quaint anecdotes and ancient myths. He will leave the islands with
regret and in after years will sometimes long for the serene and peaceful
life of the Faroese, where worry, care and social duties do not intrude
and he will count among his warmest friends the stoical Faroese.
With the ever changing mood of sea and sky these isles present a
kaleidoscopic picture. The frowning cliffs alive with sea birds, where
“clouds on clouds arise,” the higher pinnacles obscured or banded with
drifting cloud ribbons, the patches of pristine snow high up in the
mountain clefts from which numerous waterfalls leap the cliffs to fall
in silver spray upon the sea, the quaintly garbed Faroese swinging like
pendulums from the projecting lava to net the birds, or, bobbing in their
boats upon the waves, the tiny homes set in a bit of emerald vegetation
in an angle of the mountain wall, the changing panorama of sea, cliff and
sky as the boat raced with the current through the tortuous channels and
turned the last rockspire into the northern ocean and the fading of the
mighty headlands in the purple haze of a midnight twilight,—these were
the elements of a picture well worth ten thousand miles of travel. Faroe
with the quaintness of twelve centuries of isolation dropped below the
horizon and the next land to delight the eye was to be Iceland.
I was with the mate on the bridge at five the next morning and as anxious
as was _Ingölfr_ and his foster brother, _Hjörleifr_, eleven centuries
before, to discover what secrets these northern waters held,—when the dim
outline of land was seen through the shifting fog. An enthusiastic Dane,
an Icelandic maiden and her Swedish lover started the national anthem of
Iceland.
“Eldgamla Ísafold,
Ástkaera fósturmold,
Fjallkonan fríð,
Mögum pín muntu kaer,
Meðan lönd gyrðir saer,
Og gumar girnast maer,
Gljár sól á hlíð.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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