Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
At that time I did not distinguish the Icelandic from the Danish but I
knew the tune, _America_, and I mingled the good English words of Dr.
Smith with the lisping gutturals of the Scandinavian. Norse and Yankee
are well met in this Icelandic sea and I doff my cap to the descendants
of those sturdy mariners who discovered Iceland, Greenland and America
before Columbus was born, who Anglicised Celt and Britain and eventually
made possible our own dear New England.
The morning vapors are scattered. The ocean is a thing of life. It rolls
in all the wild freedom of the north, rich in livid shades of blue and
green in the nearer circle of our vision while on the far horizon it
is a sparkling amethyst beneath the deeper azure of the bending sky.
To the north, the circle is broken by the abrupt basaltic towers of
_Ingölfshofði_. Beyond these rise the red and brown fragments of extinct
craters, and yet beyond and towering far above them are the glaciated
_Jökulls_ down whose sides rush mighty torrents to dash in uncounted
waterfalls into the impatient sea. It was at this point that the foster
brothers cast overboard the temple pillars of _Ingölfr_, who vowed by
_Odin_, that upon whatever coast they were cast, there would he found his
colony. _Hjörleifr_ went to the neighboring islands, the Westmans, where
he was soon afterwards murdered by his Irish serfs. _Ingölfr_ tarried
here for about three years and sent parties along the coast to search for
the lost pillars.
This bold promontory is also noted in the Saga of _Burnt Njal_ as
being the place where Kari, the blood-avenger of Njal was wrecked when
returning from his exile. Near here stood the house of Flosi, the
lifelong enemy of Kari. The incident shows the sacredness of hospitality
among these savage people. Kari went boldly to Flosi and asked for succor
from the storm. The Burner, in spite of the sworn enmity to Kari, granted
his request, welcomed him with a Scandinavian welcome and afterwards they
became lifelong friends.
We came close in under the bare black walls of _Eyjafjalla_,
Island-Mountain, and gazed up to _Skogafoss_, Forest Waterfall,
tumbling one hundred and eighty feet of unbroken water into the breakers
which boiled with the black volcanic sand. At length we came to
_Vestmannaeyjar_, Westman Isles, which, like the fingers of the Norns had
been beckoning to us all the morning.
CHAPTER V
VESTMANNAEYJAR
“Here, by each stormy peak and desert shore,
The hardy isleman tugs the daring oar,
Practiced alike his venturous course to keep,
Through the white breakers or the pathless deep.”
—_Scott._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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