In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and homeGriffith, George Chetwynd
History
In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and home
Griffith, George Chetwynd
Crime; Criminals; New Caledonia -- Social conditions -- 19th century; Penal colonies -- New Caledonia
The ships that were in work were all flying Yellow Jack—that spectre in
bunting which followed me across the world till I bade it, I hope, a last
farewell on the quay at Marseilles. Steam-launches, too, were flying it,
dodging backwards and forwards between the ships and the shore. They
were patrolling to stop all unauthorised communication. One of them ran
alongside. Other boats, containing friends of passengers, kept at a very
respectful distance.
“Five fresh cases to-day; two deaths, one a white man,” were almost the
first words I heard at the gangway. Then the Doctor’s words came home to
me in a somewhat chill fashion. At Sydney it was only the news. This was
the ugly reality. We began to look at each other, and especially at the
people from the shore.
Which of us would be first? You could see the unspoken question in every
one’s eyes. People who had been friends on the passage didn’t care to
shake hands now. We looked at the lovely landscape in front of us, the
white-walled, grey-roofed town, nestling under tall, feathery palms, and
the flamboyants blazing with crimson blossom, at the foot of the densely
wooded mountains, and it seemed strangely out of the order of things
that this demon which has devastated the world for ages should have
chosen so fair a spot from which to send that dread message forth to men
and doctors:
“I am here, in spite of all your science. Kill me if you can. Meanwhile,
pay me my toll of life.”
It was dark before we had passed the doctor and got ashore. The first
visible sign of the terrible presence was a long wall of corrugated iron
cutting off that portion of the town which lies along the wharves from
the rest. There were openings in this, and each was guarded by a sentry
with fixed bayonet, but more than twenty days before the Spectre had
slipped past the sentries and slain a white man. Even now it was standing
by the bedside of two white girls.
The Kanakas and Tonkinois didn’t seem to matter so much. But white
people—that was a family matter to all of us. This seems uncharitable,
but it is none the less true.
[Illustration: The Plague Area at Noumea. Offices of the Messageries
Maritimes, with Sentries in front.]
When I found the place that I was to sleep in, I began to see, or,
rather, to smell, the reason why the Spectre had crossed the barriers.
Noumea has a magnificent water-supply. Fresh water flows constantly
from the mountains down through the stone channels on each side of the
streets; but its sanitation is about as rudimentary as that of a Kaffir
village.
When I went to bed I shut the long windows opening on to the balcony to
keep the smell out. I also shut in the heat and some odd millions of
mosquitos, any of which, according to popular belief, might have had
thousands of microbes concealed about its person. As a matter of fact
they hadn’t; but they got their own work in all the same.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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